| Re: what kind of bike at $300 price?
Emailed & posted on NG
The problem with buying a bike in a toy shop is that's what you'll get - a toy.
Something that is likely to be so heavy it's *not* going to help you enjoy
cycling and the components are likely to be made of cheese ;-) In the world of
bikes cheap too often means cheap and not good value.
Saying that, you don't have to spend a fortune to get somthing halfway decent.
I suggest you buy cycling mags with lots of adverts in and is possible, bike
tests. Read - often and in detail - inwardly digest. Visit *lots* of bike shops
- specialist bike shops, not ones where there's a passing nod to cycling, or a
toy shop. Try out various bikes. Do not buy the first one you try. Look at web
sites of bike manufacturers and bike retailers - get the background knowledge
to help you make the right choice.
Here's my experience - Years ago I had a bike which was a *cheap* one. It was
built in eastern europe from lead girders - well it weighed as if it was made
of lead girders. It made cycling hell. The bike was little used. It was in the
back of a garage for years. When I had my child, it had a child seat mounted
behind the seat and it was my normal transport out of necessity at thet time.
It was *not* enjoyable. Then I was bought a new bike - one of much better
quality and lighter. Overnight my mileages doubled and I actually started to
*enjoy* cycling for the first time in years. The difference between a cheap
bike and a reasonable on *is* that noticeable. I've still got that bike. Then a
couple of years ago, Santa was particularly generous to me and he delivered an
even better bike (a Bianchi San Remo, second hand). Once again, my mileages and
level of enjoyment increased.
If you are going in at bottom level prices, do not buy a bike with suspension.
Cheap suspension is rubbish. Consider buying a more expensive bike second hand,
to get quality at a budget price. Look for last year's and the year before's
models. The paint jobs will have changed but the components don't change that
much, so you can save a lot of money on a decent bike that way.
Think about the type of cycling you are going to be doing. Unless you are going
to be doing serious off-roading, I'd argue you don't need suspension. Cycling
on road, cycle paths, and light off-road doesn't require suspension. Indeed
suspension on bikes when riding on tarmac is a waste of energy.
Be prepared to make changes to any bike you buy - thinking particularly of the
saddle. What constitutes a comfortable saddle is a very individual thing.
Other things I'd recommend...
Cycle shorts with padded bottoms! Honestly - I'm never on a bike without
wearing a pair - I wear them underneath my trousers.
Jeans are not a good thing to wear when cycling - the fabric and seams can be
hard and cause *nasty* chafing of those delicate nether regions.
You may wish to consider mudguards (fenders on the other side of the pond to
me??) which are a godsend in wet weather, and front/rear lights.
You are a big guy, but this doesn't mean you need a frame made of lead to carry
you :-)
Finally - if you haven't been on a bike before or for a long time and are
generally unfit - take it slowly at first and do not think you are a wuss if
you have to get off and walk. Little and often is the way to go. Don't try and
over extend yourself. Little and often - *gradually* increasing distances and
speed is key. Most of all - enjoy it.
A couple of years ago when I first got back on the bike I couldn't cycle five
miles without getting off to catch my breath several times... now I'm
comfortable to 50+ miles and thoroughly enjoy my cycling. I may not be fast, I
may not be slim, but I'm loads fitter than I used to be, which is borne out by
the tests don at the docs.
Hope this helps a bit.
Cheers, helen s
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