| Re: Suggestions for dealing with a "frozen" track cog?
Try heating it with a heat gun or even a high-output hair drier. Did you
grease the threads before you installed it?
--
alan...42x20 commuter with lights, fenders, panniers, etc.
Anyone who believes in a liberal media has never read the "Daily Oklahoman."
"rcoder" <rcoder@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1107288547.669980.31400@c13g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> I recently decided to switch down from a a 16 to 15-tooth cog on my
> road-conversion fixie. After I picked up the new cog and pulled the
> lockring, I spent the better part of an hour wrestling with the old
> cog, pulling as hard as I could on the chain whip in hopes of freeing
> it. So far, I've been completely unsuccessful.
>
> It is entirely possible that I'm just not strong enough and will need
> some additional leverage, (or the help of a friend with more upper body
> strength) but I just wanted to see what other people's experiences had
> been when switching out track cogs on relatively heavily-used
> "commuter" fixed gear bikes. I assume that any manual force I could
> exert on the wheel (so long as it's relatively in-line with the normal
> rotational and braking forces) shouldn't do any damage to it, but
> wonder if I should be trying solvents or something, rather than
> continuing to attempt the brute-force approach.
>
> Any recommendations would be appreciated.
>
> Lennon
>
> P.S.: As long as I've got the fixie riders' attention, how about a
> quick poll? What gearing do you run? If I succeed in this switch, I'll
> be going from 42/16 to 42/15, and thinking about switching to a 44t
> chainring as my next "upgrade".
>
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