| Re: spin bikes (aka spinning cycle or group cycle)
Diablo Scott <N0SPAMdiabloscott@terra.es> wrote:
>1. Most of the adjustments are good, but there is no way to adjust
>saddle tilt - and they all feel too "nose down".
The solution to sizing to adapt a fully adjustable
bike-fitting rig to be a spin-bike.
>3. These bikes have the SPD/toeclip dual-sided pedals - probably the
>best compromise, but I wish I could use my regular road shoes.
I just have two identical pairs with different cleats.
But then, I buy the $39 shoes.
>4. The grips are always sliding off the ends of the bars (slowly, over
>many classes) - put an end plug in there that holds 'em on!
Hose clamps.
>5. These bikes have a dial that adjusts the resistance on the flywheel.
> It works fine but there's no indicator to show what resistance you're
>using - there should be.
Hard if not impossible to make; a bike with a PowerTap
on the crank would probably be the only way to gauge
resistance consistently.
>6. The feet don't adjust to account for uneven floors so sometimes you
>get a bike that rocks around.
Now that's just wrong. Although it brings up the point
that stationary bikes don't rock, and real bikes do, and
a little of that countermotion would be a good thing.
Although the slower riders would probably just end up
leaning farther and farther over until they fell off...
>7. No place to put your walkman if you're riding outside of class.
What? You don't wear a three-pocket jersey in the gym?
(Just let me be there when you do; I want to watch the
stares.)
>I can think of a lot of things I'd put on a super-expensive bike, like
>power meters and cadence sensors, but I figure these 7 items could be
>incorporated into a reasonably priced machine.
The machine you ride at the gym probably costs about $2-3,000.
And it still breaks more often than a real bike would.
--Blair
"8. Inch-thick crankshafts."
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