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04-15-2004, 10:28 PM

"David Kerber" <ns_dkerber@ns_ids.net> wrote in message
news:MPG.1ae862a4ba56ced19896c6@news.east.cox.net. ..
> In article <27f93351.0404150545.486e92e8@posting.google.com >,
> warrenginn@erols.com says...
>
> ...
>
> > Is speed and wind resistance the only reason to use drop bars? My
> > perception is that the weight distribution for drop bars is like
> > you're doing "push-ups" while riding whereas using bars that place
> > more weight on the seat like the ones I use keep me from placing too
> > much stress on my shoulders in exchange for possibly a sore butt on
> > long rides. Is this your impression?
>
> I'm not rocketman, but I'll jump in here: I like the many different
> hand positions that drop bars give me, whether or not I use the drops to
> get down out of the wind (though that certainly helps in many
> situations).
>
> I also second his suggestion that you at least consider touring bikes.
> They usually don't have suspensions, but they do have longer wheel bases
> and will accept larger tires, both of which make the ride more
> comfortable on rough roads, and heavier-duty frames so the rough roads
> aren't likely to damage them. My Fuji Touring comes with 32mm tires,
> with room for bigger ones (probably up to 35 or 38, though I haven't
> tried). It has drop bars, but they are mounted up fairly high (even
> with the seat by default), and has a threaded stem, so it's easy to
> raise them up even more if you want.

Exactly. David has made a good point which addresses your concerns about
handlebar height. *Any* bike - road, MTB, you name it - can have higher
handlebars if you want them. I ride my road racing bike with the top of the
handlebars even with the top of the saddle. That's about 3" higher than
most "racer" handlebar positions. Does it affect my speed? Not that you'd
notice. But what it does do is help distribute more weight off of my hands,
and gets my head up higher, with less neck and back strain. For my aging
body, that's just what the doctor ordered.

I also have a new "commuter" bike (essentially, a cyclocross/touring bike
with sloping top tube and MTB-style handelbars) that is a lot of fun. It
will be my loaded touring bike this summer. It's not nearly as fast as my
road bike, despite being fairly light, and having road bike wheels and
skinny-ish tires. Why is it slow? The wide, flat handlebars put me in a
more upright riding position, and I catch too much wind. Plus, the more
"open" riding position (not "tucked") is less powerful. Try it and you'll
see what I mean. There's a reason why road racing bikes are designed the
way that they are, and not longer and lower to "open up" the riding
position. I've ridden "open position" lowracer recumbents, and I couldn't
develop the same kind of speed that I can on an upright road racing bike -
even with the huge aero advantage of the lowracer design (almost lying flat
on your back, pedals out front).

Hope this is helpful info. Best of luck choosing your new bike. Try
everything you can, and buy the one that feels right. Don't look at the
price tags. Quality, fit and service are remembered long after price is
forgotten.

Rocketman

04-15-2004, 10:28 PM	#40 (permalink)
Rocketman Posts: n/a	Re: Compare Cannondale RW 1000 vs. Trek 7700 "David Kerber" <ns_dkerber@ns_ids.net> wrote in message news:MPG.1ae862a4ba56ced19896c6@news.east.cox.net. .. > In article <27f93351.0404150545.486e92e8@posting.google.com >, > warrenginn@erols.com says... > > ... > > > Is speed and wind resistance the only reason to use drop bars? My > > perception is that the weight distribution for drop bars is like > > you're doing "push-ups" while riding whereas using bars that place > > more weight on the seat like the ones I use keep me from placing too > > much stress on my shoulders in exchange for possibly a sore butt on > > long rides. Is this your impression? > > I'm not rocketman, but I'll jump in here: I like the many different > hand positions that drop bars give me, whether or not I use the drops to > get down out of the wind (though that certainly helps in many > situations). > > I also second his suggestion that you at least consider touring bikes. > They usually don't have suspensions, but they do have longer wheel bases > and will accept larger tires, both of which make the ride more > comfortable on rough roads, and heavier-duty frames so the rough roads > aren't likely to damage them. My Fuji Touring comes with 32mm tires, > with room for bigger ones (probably up to 35 or 38, though I haven't > tried). It has drop bars, but they are mounted up fairly high (even > with the seat by default), and has a threaded stem, so it's easy to > raise them up even more if you want. Exactly. David has made a good point which addresses your concerns about handlebar height. Any bike - road, MTB, you name it - can have higher handlebars if you want them. I ride my road racing bike with the top of the handlebars even with the top of the saddle. That's about 3" higher than most "racer" handlebar positions. Does it affect my speed? Not that you'd notice. But what it does do is help distribute more weight off of my hands, and gets my head up higher, with less neck and back strain. For my aging body, that's just what the doctor ordered. I also have a new "commuter" bike (essentially, a cyclocross/touring bike with sloping top tube and MTB-style handelbars) that is a lot of fun. It will be my loaded touring bike this summer. It's not nearly as fast as my road bike, despite being fairly light, and having road bike wheels and skinny-ish tires. Why is it slow? The wide, flat handlebars put me in a more upright riding position, and I catch too much wind. Plus, the more "open" riding position (not "tucked") is less powerful. Try it and you'll see what I mean. There's a reason why road racing bikes are designed the way that they are, and not longer and lower to "open up" the riding position. I've ridden "open position" lowracer recumbents, and I couldn't develop the same kind of speed that I can on an upright road racing bike - even with the huge aero advantage of the lowracer design (almost lying flat on your back, pedals out front). Hope this is helpful info. Best of luck choosing your new bike. Try everything you can, and buy the one that feels right. Don't look at the price tags. Quality, fit and service are remembered long after price is forgotten. Rocketman