Need help/advice converting SS MTB to English 3-Speed - Page 2

11-16-2004, 06:31 PM

On 16 Nov 2004 17:03:02 -0800, [Only registered and activated users can see links. ] (Lobo Tommy) wrote:

>After riding a 3-speed bicycle over the weekend I simply can not go
>back to riding my single speed mountain bike. It is an entirely new
>experience - and one that fits me perfectly as a rider.
>
>Here is what I would like to do:
>
>I have a Redline Monocog Single Speed mountain bike. Because of it's
>BMX genes it only takes 110mm hubs. According to Sturmey Archers
>website they sell a 110mm 3 speed hub(!). So here is the plan:
>
>- New wheels with Sturmey Archer 3-speed 110mm hub on the rear
>- Replace stock pedals with MKS Rubber Pedals with Reflectors
>- Replace flat bar with Nitto Aluminum North Road Bars and Raleigh
>Grips
>- New tires likely a 26x1.5" semi-slick
>- a Kickstand
>- if possible, fenders and a rear rack
>- Add a Brooks B67 springer saddle for a comfy upright position
>
>So here are the questions:
>
>1. Am I insane?

IMO, no. You may get some strange looks, but so what?

>2. What type of rims/spokes would go well with this?

Use your current rims. Spokes? Unless you've got a major weight
issue to address, just about any should work fine in that application.

>3. I don't think the Monocog came with eyelets for fenders or a rack.
>Is it feasable to drill these in or are their alternatives for this
>situation?

Now, that could be a problem. The SA hub's axle has a limited amount
of extra reach, and might allow you to sandwich in a rack that's
designed to mount that way, but if the dropouts are thick (and many
aluminum ones are), then you've got a bit of a challenge. I'd consult
the lbs for help.

>4. Anything else I can add to make this a bit more 'English'?

A generator-powered light set, a bell, a fully enclosed chain guard,
and one of the useless rear wheel locks that's about as secure as
asking the wino in front of the store to watch your bike while you
shop. (I have an English roadster out back, you see...)

Of course, it won't be really English without 700C or 27" rims, but
there are some concessions that will just have to be made.

>Recommendations on gearing?

Start with the front chainring that you have now. Swap to a different
one only if experience indicates the need.

>5. The Monocogs BMX genes give it a LONG seat tube. What kind of stem
>set up should I be looking at to get those handle bars in the right
>position?

Whatever it takes to put it where you prefer, but the classic location
is about one to three inches above the seat.

Of course, if you were to cast around at the local thrift stores a
bit, I bet you'd come up with an English roadster in good shape before
very long...probably for about 20 to 35 dollars. I've seen lots of
them at the local Goodwill stores. They usually just need lube and
tires to make them useful.
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

11-16-2004, 06:31 PM

On 16 Nov 2004 17:03:02 -0800, [Only registered and activated users can see links. ] (Lobo Tommy) wrote:

>After riding a 3-speed bicycle over the weekend I simply can not go
>back to riding my single speed mountain bike. It is an entirely new
>experience - and one that fits me perfectly as a rider.
>
>Here is what I would like to do:
>
>I have a Redline Monocog Single Speed mountain bike. Because of it's
>BMX genes it only takes 110mm hubs. According to Sturmey Archers
>website they sell a 110mm 3 speed hub(!). So here is the plan:
>
>- New wheels with Sturmey Archer 3-speed 110mm hub on the rear
>- Replace stock pedals with MKS Rubber Pedals with Reflectors
>- Replace flat bar with Nitto Aluminum North Road Bars and Raleigh
>Grips
>- New tires likely a 26x1.5" semi-slick
>- a Kickstand
>- if possible, fenders and a rear rack
>- Add a Brooks B67 springer saddle for a comfy upright position
>
>So here are the questions:
>
>1. Am I insane?

IMO, no. You may get some strange looks, but so what?

>2. What type of rims/spokes would go well with this?

Use your current rims. Spokes? Unless you've got a major weight
issue to address, just about any should work fine in that application.

>3. I don't think the Monocog came with eyelets for fenders or a rack.
>Is it feasable to drill these in or are their alternatives for this
>situation?

Now, that could be a problem. The SA hub's axle has a limited amount
of extra reach, and might allow you to sandwich in a rack that's
designed to mount that way, but if the dropouts are thick (and many
aluminum ones are), then you've got a bit of a challenge. I'd consult
the lbs for help.

>4. Anything else I can add to make this a bit more 'English'?

A generator-powered light set, a bell, a fully enclosed chain guard,
and one of the useless rear wheel locks that's about as secure as
asking the wino in front of the store to watch your bike while you
shop. (I have an English roadster out back, you see...)

Of course, it won't be really English without 700C or 27" rims, but
there are some concessions that will just have to be made.

>Recommendations on gearing?

Start with the front chainring that you have now. Swap to a different
one only if experience indicates the need.

>5. The Monocogs BMX genes give it a LONG seat tube. What kind of stem
>set up should I be looking at to get those handle bars in the right
>position?

Whatever it takes to put it where you prefer, but the classic location
is about one to three inches above the seat.

Of course, if you were to cast around at the local thrift stores a
bit, I bet you'd come up with an English roadster in good shape before
very long...probably for about 20 to 35 dollars. I've seen lots of
them at the local Goodwill stores. They usually just need lube and
tires to make them useful.
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

11-16-2004, 06:31 PM

On 16 Nov 2004 17:03:02 -0800, [Only registered and activated users can see links. ] (Lobo Tommy) wrote:

>After riding a 3-speed bicycle over the weekend I simply can not go
>back to riding my single speed mountain bike. It is an entirely new
>experience - and one that fits me perfectly as a rider.
>
>Here is what I would like to do:
>
>I have a Redline Monocog Single Speed mountain bike. Because of it's
>BMX genes it only takes 110mm hubs. According to Sturmey Archers
>website they sell a 110mm 3 speed hub(!). So here is the plan:
>
>- New wheels with Sturmey Archer 3-speed 110mm hub on the rear
>- Replace stock pedals with MKS Rubber Pedals with Reflectors
>- Replace flat bar with Nitto Aluminum North Road Bars and Raleigh
>Grips
>- New tires likely a 26x1.5" semi-slick
>- a Kickstand
>- if possible, fenders and a rear rack
>- Add a Brooks B67 springer saddle for a comfy upright position
>
>So here are the questions:
>
>1. Am I insane?

IMO, no. You may get some strange looks, but so what?

>2. What type of rims/spokes would go well with this?

Use your current rims. Spokes? Unless you've got a major weight
issue to address, just about any should work fine in that application.

>3. I don't think the Monocog came with eyelets for fenders or a rack.
>Is it feasable to drill these in or are their alternatives for this
>situation?

Now, that could be a problem. The SA hub's axle has a limited amount
of extra reach, and might allow you to sandwich in a rack that's
designed to mount that way, but if the dropouts are thick (and many
aluminum ones are), then you've got a bit of a challenge. I'd consult
the lbs for help.

>4. Anything else I can add to make this a bit more 'English'?

A generator-powered light set, a bell, a fully enclosed chain guard,
and one of the useless rear wheel locks that's about as secure as
asking the wino in front of the store to watch your bike while you
shop. (I have an English roadster out back, you see...)

Of course, it won't be really English without 700C or 27" rims, but
there are some concessions that will just have to be made.

>Recommendations on gearing?

Start with the front chainring that you have now. Swap to a different
one only if experience indicates the need.

>5. The Monocogs BMX genes give it a LONG seat tube. What kind of stem
>set up should I be looking at to get those handle bars in the right
>position?

Whatever it takes to put it where you prefer, but the classic location
is about one to three inches above the seat.

Of course, if you were to cast around at the local thrift stores a
bit, I bet you'd come up with an English roadster in good shape before
very long...probably for about 20 to 35 dollars. I've seen lots of
them at the local Goodwill stores. They usually just need lube and
tires to make them useful.
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

11-16-2004, 07:36 PM

On Tue, 16 Nov 2004 19:13:28 -0800, Bill Baka wrote:

> My two cents is not to discount the Sturmey-Archer hubs. I rode them into
> the ground when I was a kid in Illinois and never broke one or ever heard
> of one breaking. You kind of get used to that click...click...click when
> the gear train is working. I miss it.

Don't get me wrong, I'm the proud owner of a '73 rod brake Tourist.

It's never let me down, and I do like the click click too.

(hint for Sturmey Archer newbies: use motor oil or similar to get that
proper nice click, thinner oil just won't do)

I've also put tens of thousands of miles on a newer Shimano unit.

Both are great. One's historic and reliable, the other shifts a tad
smoother and is also bulletfproof. I do hate the Shimano grip shifter
though--the old style thumb rocker shifter for the nexus is very nice and
that's what I recommend--you can use it with groovy old grips.

A Sturmey might be cheaper even if you have the wheel built for you around
it.

So many options.

I'm a fan of most internal hubs.

Speaking of three speed type uprights:

One thing I like to do, is to use drop bar brake levers on North Road
style bars--the cable-exit-top style, place them further in on the curve,
and wrap the bars with cork tape for more hand positions. I picked that up
from some Swedish bikes in the eighties--though they used crappier tape of
course.

11-16-2004, 07:36 PM

On Tue, 16 Nov 2004 19:13:28 -0800, Bill Baka wrote:

> My two cents is not to discount the Sturmey-Archer hubs. I rode them into
> the ground when I was a kid in Illinois and never broke one or ever heard
> of one breaking. You kind of get used to that click...click...click when
> the gear train is working. I miss it.

Don't get me wrong, I'm the proud owner of a '73 rod brake Tourist.

It's never let me down, and I do like the click click too.

(hint for Sturmey Archer newbies: use motor oil or similar to get that
proper nice click, thinner oil just won't do)

I've also put tens of thousands of miles on a newer Shimano unit.

Both are great. One's historic and reliable, the other shifts a tad
smoother and is also bulletfproof. I do hate the Shimano grip shifter
though--the old style thumb rocker shifter for the nexus is very nice and
that's what I recommend--you can use it with groovy old grips.

A Sturmey might be cheaper even if you have the wheel built for you around
it.

So many options.

I'm a fan of most internal hubs.

Speaking of three speed type uprights:

One thing I like to do, is to use drop bar brake levers on North Road
style bars--the cable-exit-top style, place them further in on the curve,
and wrap the bars with cork tape for more hand positions. I picked that up
from some Swedish bikes in the eighties--though they used crappier tape of
course.

11-16-2004, 07:36 PM

On Tue, 16 Nov 2004 19:13:28 -0800, Bill Baka wrote:

> My two cents is not to discount the Sturmey-Archer hubs. I rode them into
> the ground when I was a kid in Illinois and never broke one or ever heard
> of one breaking. You kind of get used to that click...click...click when
> the gear train is working. I miss it.

Don't get me wrong, I'm the proud owner of a '73 rod brake Tourist.

It's never let me down, and I do like the click click too.

(hint for Sturmey Archer newbies: use motor oil or similar to get that
proper nice click, thinner oil just won't do)

I've also put tens of thousands of miles on a newer Shimano unit.

Both are great. One's historic and reliable, the other shifts a tad
smoother and is also bulletfproof. I do hate the Shimano grip shifter
though--the old style thumb rocker shifter for the nexus is very nice and
that's what I recommend--you can use it with groovy old grips.

A Sturmey might be cheaper even if you have the wheel built for you around
it.

So many options.

I'm a fan of most internal hubs.

Speaking of three speed type uprights:

One thing I like to do, is to use drop bar brake levers on North Road
style bars--the cable-exit-top style, place them further in on the curve,
and wrap the bars with cork tape for more hand positions. I picked that up
from some Swedish bikes in the eighties--though they used crappier tape of
course.

11-16-2004, 07:36 PM

On Tue, 16 Nov 2004 19:13:28 -0800, Bill Baka wrote:

> My two cents is not to discount the Sturmey-Archer hubs. I rode them into
> the ground when I was a kid in Illinois and never broke one or ever heard
> of one breaking. You kind of get used to that click...click...click when
> the gear train is working. I miss it.

Don't get me wrong, I'm the proud owner of a '73 rod brake Tourist.

It's never let me down, and I do like the click click too.

(hint for Sturmey Archer newbies: use motor oil or similar to get that
proper nice click, thinner oil just won't do)

I've also put tens of thousands of miles on a newer Shimano unit.

Both are great. One's historic and reliable, the other shifts a tad
smoother and is also bulletfproof. I do hate the Shimano grip shifter
though--the old style thumb rocker shifter for the nexus is very nice and
that's what I recommend--you can use it with groovy old grips.

A Sturmey might be cheaper even if you have the wheel built for you around
it.

So many options.

I'm a fan of most internal hubs.

Speaking of three speed type uprights:

One thing I like to do, is to use drop bar brake levers on North Road
style bars--the cable-exit-top style, place them further in on the curve,
and wrap the bars with cork tape for more hand positions. I picked that up
from some Swedish bikes in the eighties--though they used crappier tape of
course.

11-17-2004, 09:20 AM

"Lobo Tommy" wrote:

>>I have a Redline Monocog Single Speed mountain bike. Because of it's
>>BMX genes it only takes 110mm hubs. According to Sturmey Archers
>>website they sell a 110mm 3 speed hub(!). So here is the plan:
>>
>>- New wheels with Sturmey Archer 3-speed 110mm hub on the rear
>>- Replace stock pedals with MKS Rubber Pedals with Reflectors
>>- Replace flat bar with Nitto Aluminum North Road Bars and Raleigh
>>Grips
>>- New tires likely a 26x1.5" semi-slick
>>- a Kickstand
>>- if possible, fenders and a rear rack
>>- Add a Brooks B67 springer saddle for a comfy upright position
>
>>2. What type of rims/spokes would go well with this?
>
A usually-reliable source answered:
>
> Use your current rims.

Nope. Pretty sure the bike comes with 32 spoke wheels, but
Sturmey-Archer has never made a 32 hole rear hub. Current ones are 36
or 28. There are a lot of older 40 hole ones around too.

>>3. I don't think the Monocog came with eyelets for fenders or a rack.
>>Is it feasable to drill these in or are their alternatives for this
>>situation?

Shouldn't be difficult in back, might be an issue in front. Some folks
use Zip ties to mount fender stays.

> Of course, it won't be really English without 700C or 27" rims, but
> there are some concessions that will just have to be made.

700c is EXTREMELY un-English, actually. Most British 3-speeds used 590
mm (26 x 1 3/8), but the MonoCog has cantilever brakes, so it would be
asking for trouble to use anything but the 559 mm (26 x decimal) size it
was built for.
>
>>Recommendations on gearing?

The MonoCog comes geared very low, with a 32 tooth chainring.

The smallest readily available sprocket for an internal-gear hub is 14
teeth, which would give you a 43 inch low and a 76 inch high gear, a bit
on the low side overall.

It is possible to modify a Shimano cassette sprocket to fit, permitting
you to make a usable 12 or 13 tooth sprocket.

>>5. The Monocogs BMX genes give it a LONG seat tube. What kind of stem
>>set up should I be looking at to get those handle bars in the right
>>position?
>
>
> Whatever it takes to put it where you prefer, but the classic location
> is about one to three inches above the seat.
>
> Of course, if you were to cast around at the local thrift stores a
> bit, I bet you'd come up with an English roadster in good shape before
> very long...probably for about 20 to 35 dollars. I've seen lots of
> them at the local Goodwill stores. They usually just need lube and
> tires to make them useful.

An anonymous poster suggested:

> Get yourself a set of 26" prebuilt Shimano Nexus hub wheels.

Nope, this won't fit the 110 spacing of the Mono Cog. This is a steel
frame, so it theoretically could be spread wider, but it is a VERY heavy
duty, BMX type frame, and would likely require a LOT of force to
re-space it--I woud advise against trying.

Sheldon "http://sheldonbrown.com/english" Brown
+------------------------------------------------+
| I’m currently appearing in: |
| Gilbert & Sullivan's Iolanthe at M.I.T. |
| November 12, 13, 14 and 18, 19, 20, 21 |
| [Only registered and activated users can see links. ] |
| [Only registered and activated users can see links. ] |
+------------------------------------------------+
Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]
Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
[Only registered and activated users can see links. ] [Only registered and activated users can see links. ]

11-17-2004, 09:20 AM

"Lobo Tommy" wrote:

>>I have a Redline Monocog Single Speed mountain bike. Because of it's
>>BMX genes it only takes 110mm hubs. According to Sturmey Archers
>>website they sell a 110mm 3 speed hub(!). So here is the plan:
>>
>>- New wheels with Sturmey Archer 3-speed 110mm hub on the rear
>>- Replace stock pedals with MKS Rubber Pedals with Reflectors
>>- Replace flat bar with Nitto Aluminum North Road Bars and Raleigh
>>Grips
>>- New tires likely a 26x1.5" semi-slick
>>- a Kickstand
>>- if possible, fenders and a rear rack
>>- Add a Brooks B67 springer saddle for a comfy upright position
>
>>2. What type of rims/spokes would go well with this?
>
A usually-reliable source answered:
>
> Use your current rims.

Nope. Pretty sure the bike comes with 32 spoke wheels, but
Sturmey-Archer has never made a 32 hole rear hub. Current ones are 36
or 28. There are a lot of older 40 hole ones around too.

>>3. I don't think the Monocog came with eyelets for fenders or a rack.
>>Is it feasable to drill these in or are their alternatives for this
>>situation?

Shouldn't be difficult in back, might be an issue in front. Some folks
use Zip ties to mount fender stays.

> Of course, it won't be really English without 700C or 27" rims, but
> there are some concessions that will just have to be made.

700c is EXTREMELY un-English, actually. Most British 3-speeds used 590
mm (26 x 1 3/8), but the MonoCog has cantilever brakes, so it would be
asking for trouble to use anything but the 559 mm (26 x decimal) size it
was built for.
>
>>Recommendations on gearing?

The MonoCog comes geared very low, with a 32 tooth chainring.

The smallest readily available sprocket for an internal-gear hub is 14
teeth, which would give you a 43 inch low and a 76 inch high gear, a bit
on the low side overall.

It is possible to modify a Shimano cassette sprocket to fit, permitting
you to make a usable 12 or 13 tooth sprocket.

>>5. The Monocogs BMX genes give it a LONG seat tube. What kind of stem
>>set up should I be looking at to get those handle bars in the right
>>position?
>
>
> Whatever it takes to put it where you prefer, but the classic location
> is about one to three inches above the seat.
>
> Of course, if you were to cast around at the local thrift stores a
> bit, I bet you'd come up with an English roadster in good shape before
> very long...probably for about 20 to 35 dollars. I've seen lots of
> them at the local Goodwill stores. They usually just need lube and
> tires to make them useful.

An anonymous poster suggested:

> Get yourself a set of 26" prebuilt Shimano Nexus hub wheels.

Nope, this won't fit the 110 spacing of the Mono Cog. This is a steel
frame, so it theoretically could be spread wider, but it is a VERY heavy
duty, BMX type frame, and would likely require a LOT of force to
re-space it--I woud advise against trying.

Sheldon "http://sheldonbrown.com/english" Brown
+------------------------------------------------+
| I’m currently appearing in: |
| Gilbert & Sullivan's Iolanthe at M.I.T. |
| November 12, 13, 14 and 18, 19, 20, 21 |
| [Only registered and activated users can see links. ] |
| [Only registered and activated users can see links. ] |
+------------------------------------------------+
Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]
Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
[Only registered and activated users can see links. ] [Only registered and activated users can see links. ]

11-17-2004, 09:20 AM

"Lobo Tommy" wrote:

>>I have a Redline Monocog Single Speed mountain bike. Because of it's
>>BMX genes it only takes 110mm hubs. According to Sturmey Archers
>>website they sell a 110mm 3 speed hub(!). So here is the plan:
>>
>>- New wheels with Sturmey Archer 3-speed 110mm hub on the rear
>>- Replace stock pedals with MKS Rubber Pedals with Reflectors
>>- Replace flat bar with Nitto Aluminum North Road Bars and Raleigh
>>Grips
>>- New tires likely a 26x1.5" semi-slick
>>- a Kickstand
>>- if possible, fenders and a rear rack
>>- Add a Brooks B67 springer saddle for a comfy upright position
>
>>2. What type of rims/spokes would go well with this?
>
A usually-reliable source answered:
>
> Use your current rims.

Nope. Pretty sure the bike comes with 32 spoke wheels, but
Sturmey-Archer has never made a 32 hole rear hub. Current ones are 36
or 28. There are a lot of older 40 hole ones around too.

>>3. I don't think the Monocog came with eyelets for fenders or a rack.
>>Is it feasable to drill these in or are their alternatives for this
>>situation?

Shouldn't be difficult in back, might be an issue in front. Some folks
use Zip ties to mount fender stays.

> Of course, it won't be really English without 700C or 27" rims, but
> there are some concessions that will just have to be made.

700c is EXTREMELY un-English, actually. Most British 3-speeds used 590
mm (26 x 1 3/8), but the MonoCog has cantilever brakes, so it would be
asking for trouble to use anything but the 559 mm (26 x decimal) size it
was built for.
>
>>Recommendations on gearing?

The MonoCog comes geared very low, with a 32 tooth chainring.

The smallest readily available sprocket for an internal-gear hub is 14
teeth, which would give you a 43 inch low and a 76 inch high gear, a bit
on the low side overall.

It is possible to modify a Shimano cassette sprocket to fit, permitting
you to make a usable 12 or 13 tooth sprocket.

>>5. The Monocogs BMX genes give it a LONG seat tube. What kind of stem
>>set up should I be looking at to get those handle bars in the right
>>position?
>
>
> Whatever it takes to put it where you prefer, but the classic location
> is about one to three inches above the seat.
>
> Of course, if you were to cast around at the local thrift stores a
> bit, I bet you'd come up with an English roadster in good shape before
> very long...probably for about 20 to 35 dollars. I've seen lots of
> them at the local Goodwill stores. They usually just need lube and
> tires to make them useful.

An anonymous poster suggested:

> Get yourself a set of 26" prebuilt Shimano Nexus hub wheels.

Nope, this won't fit the 110 spacing of the Mono Cog. This is a steel
frame, so it theoretically could be spread wider, but it is a VERY heavy
duty, BMX type frame, and would likely require a LOT of force to
re-space it--I woud advise against trying.

Sheldon "http://sheldonbrown.com/english" Brown
+------------------------------------------------+
| I’m currently appearing in: |
| Gilbert & Sullivan's Iolanthe at M.I.T. |
| November 12, 13, 14 and 18, 19, 20, 21 |
| [Only registered and activated users can see links. ] |
| [Only registered and activated users can see links. ] |
+------------------------------------------------+
Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]
Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
[Only registered and activated users can see links. ] [Only registered and activated users can see links. ]