Advise on frame & fork materials for strong road bike? - Cycling Mob: Road Cycling, Mountain Biking and More

01-16-2007, 07:09 AM

I'm thinking of using a piece of the upcoming tax return to add my
first real road bike to the collection. While I'd like something
reasonably lightweight my main concern is strength. I weigh in closer
to 200lbs than I should and do not have the lightest riding style in
the world. I'm concerned that an aluminum frame & fork will not hold
up to my weight riding off city curbs or the occasional trail detour
thrown into a daylong road ride.

Now for the questions:
1) Am I correct in assuming that I should be looking for a steel frame
and fork?
2) I'm thinking 36 spoke wheels. Is that enough? Overkill?
Material or model suggestions?
3) Are touring bikes generally stronger than race bikes?
4) Is the same rider generally faster or a race bike?
5) Do any manufactures warranty their frames & forks in the road bike
world?

I've read of riders such as Jobst successfully using road bicycles on
rides with a couple miles of trail thrown in and logging many thousands
of miles. I've not heard anything about Jobst's weight or chosen
ride but am still encouraged by this.

Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions,

Dan

01-16-2007, 07:13 AM

"Dan in Dover" <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> wrote in message
news:1168960152.121567.70150@51g2000cwl.googlegrou ps.com...
> I weigh in closer
> to 200lbs than I should and do not have the lightest riding style in
> the world. I'm concerned that an aluminum frame & fork will not hold
> up to my weight riding off city curbs or the occasional trail detour
> thrown into a daylong road ride.

If you do like going off-road from time to time, maybe you'd be happiest
with a cyclo-cross bike? A touring bike's another possibility. You mention
"racing" bikes, but nowhere in your post do I see you're interested in
racing.

What's your budget?

--
Warm Regards,

Claire Petersky
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01-16-2007, 07:17 AM

On 16 Jan 2007 07:09:13 -0800, "Dan in Dover" <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]>
wrote:

>I'm thinking of using a piece of the upcoming tax return to add my
>first real road bike to the collection. While I'd like something
>reasonably lightweight my main concern is strength. I weigh in closer
>to 200lbs than I should and do not have the lightest riding style in
>the world. I'm concerned that an aluminum frame & fork will not hold
>up to my weight riding off city curbs or the occasional trail detour
>thrown into a daylong road ride.
>
>Now for the questions:
>1) Am I correct in assuming that I should be looking for a steel frame
>and fork?
>2) I'm thinking 36 spoke wheels. Is that enough? Overkill?
>Material or model suggestions?
>3) Are touring bikes generally stronger than race bikes?
>4) Is the same rider generally faster or a race bike?
>5) Do any manufactures warranty their frames & forks in the road bike
>world?
>
>I've read of riders such as Jobst successfully using road bicycles on
>rides with a couple miles of trail thrown in and logging many thousands
>of miles. I've not heard anything about Jobst's weight or chosen
>ride but am still encouraged by this.
>
>
>Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions,
>
>Dan

Surly Pacer Road bike with steel fork
Open Pro mavic 36 hole rims with double butted spokes
Tire size 28 or 32

Bullet proof.

01-16-2007, 07:17 AM

Dan in Dover wrote:
> I'm thinking of using a piece of the upcoming tax return to add my
> first real road bike to the collection. While I'd like something
> reasonably lightweight my main concern is strength. I weigh in closer
> to 200lbs than I should and do not have the lightest riding style in
> the world. I'm concerned that an aluminum frame & fork will not hold
> up to my weight riding off city curbs or the occasional trail detour
> thrown into a daylong road ride.
>
> Now for the questions:
> 1) Am I correct in assuming that I should be looking for a steel frame
> and fork?

Or titanium, well made.

> 2) I'm thinking 36 spoke wheels. Is that enough? Overkill?

NO payback for 36h wheels.
> Material or model suggestions?

Waterford, Lynskey, Moots, Ginnar, Habanero
> 3) Are touring bikes generally stronger than race bikes?

Yes but lots more differences than that.

> 4) Is the same rider generally faster or a race bike?

Nope, weight differences are small and vastky over played.

> 5) Do any manufactures warranty their frames & forks in the road bike
> world?

The ones I mentioned are lifetime.
>
> I've read of riders such as Jobst successfully using road bicycles on
> rides with a couple miles of trail thrown in and logging many thousands
> of miles. I've not heard anything about Jobst's weight or chosen
> ride but am still encouraged by this.

A 'road' bike with room for fatter tires is a great idea...see
Waterford and Gunnar.
>
>
> Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions,
>
> Dan

01-16-2007, 07:25 AM

Dan in Dover wrote:
> I'm thinking of using a piece of the upcoming tax return to add my
> first real road bike to the collection. While I'd like something
> reasonably lightweight my main concern is strength. I weigh in closer
> to 200lbs than I should and do not have the lightest riding style in
> the world. I'm concerned that an aluminum frame & fork will not hold
> up to my weight riding off city curbs or the occasional trail detour
> thrown into a daylong road ride.
>
> Now for the questions:
> 1) Am I correct in assuming that I should be looking for a steel frame
> and fork?
From the sounds of it you are right about the frame and fork materials.

> 2) I'm thinking 36 spoke wheels. Is that enough? Overkill?
> Material or model suggestions?
36 would probably be best, you could probably go down to a 32, but
really you won't notice any performance difference.

> 3) Are touring bikes generally stronger than race bikes?
Yes they are.

> 4) Is the same rider generally faster or a race bike?
Too many factors go into an answer for this question. But in general
yes, a true race bike is lighter and will tend to be faster when ridden
by the same rider under the same conditions.

> 5) Do any manufactures warranty their frames & forks in the road bike
> world?
All (that I know of) have some sort of warranty. Lengths and terms vary.

Ken
--
The bicycle is just as good company as most husbands and, when it gets
old and shabby, a woman can dispose of it and get a new one without
shocking the entire community. ~Ann Strong

01-16-2007, 07:37 AM

Claire Said:
> If you do like going off-road from time to time, maybe you'd be happiest with a cyclo-cross bike?

A cross bike is an interesting suggestion. Would I be notably slower
on the road riding a cross bike when compared to a touring or racing
bike? I assume the cross bike would be notably stronger? Are most/all
CX bikes steel frame/fork?

Claire Said:
> You mention "racing" bikes, but nowhere in your post do I see you're interested in racing.

While I don't see myself ever being a full-blown racer, I would like
to hook up with a club and do a couple group rides this summer. I also
want to enter a beginner's race this fall. That said, I don't
think I need a "racing" bike. I just want to take the fun of
putting away 100K while working on my average speed to the next level.
When I went from my MTB to my current 1970's SS road bike for my road
rides last spring and the difference was amazing. I see a geared
semi-racy bike as the step after the SS. That, and I don't think I
could hang on a club ride without gears <g>.

Claire Said:
> What's your budget?

It should be $700ish. I could stretch it a bit. Someone tempted me
with a leftover KHS for (IIRC) ~$850 recently, but as pretty as it was
it looked fragile. Much higher than that may create a war at home.
Less would be great. Much depends on the price of the upcoming home
repairs, which is why I'm just trying to get my research done now.
If I luck out with the house, I could have $1000. If luck outs me, I
could be shopping used for $500.

01-16-2007, 07:45 AM

qui si parla Campagnolo said:
>Or titanium, well made.
Great suggestion, but outside of my budget this time around.

qui si parla Campagnolo said:
>NO payback for 36h wheels.
No payback? I'm not fully understanding, but get the gist that I must
ride 36.

qui si parla Campagnolo said:
>Waterford, Lynskey, Moots, Ginnar, Habanero
Again, thanks. I'll keep my eyes open, but the small guys may be out
of my price range for this one.

qui si parla Campagnolo said:
>Yes but lots more differences than that.

Anything else that may make a big difference to me? I won't need racks
of fenders on this particular bike, just a couple waterbottle cages and
a saddlebag.

qui si parla Campagnolo said:
>The ones I mentioned are lifetime.

I'll look more carefully. I may be able to stretch the budget a bit
farther for a lifetime warranty on the frame/fork.

qui si parla Campagnolo said:
>A 'road' bike with room for fatter tires is a great idea...see Waterford and Gunnar.

I will. Thanks again.

01-16-2007, 07:53 AM

Fritz said:
> Surly Pacer Road bike with steel fork
> Open Pro mavic 36 hole rims with double butted spokes
> Tire size 28 or 32
> Bullet proof.- Hide quoted text -- Show quoted text -

Concise and specific, I like. Any idea what that setup may set me back
with a midrange groupset? Any warranty on the Pacer frame?

Thanks.

01-16-2007, 08:46 AM

Dan in Dover wrote:
> 1) Am I correct in assuming that I should be looking for a steel frame
> and fork?

I'm a big fan of lugged steel frames, but these days you won't find an
inexpensive one (unless used). Aluminum will give the best bang for the
buck. Just avoid ultra light aluminum. The old Cannondale aluminum
frames were bomb proof.

> 2) I'm thinking 36 spoke wheels. Is that enough? Overkill?
> Material or model suggestions?

That's what I ride, though you'll have a better choice of 32 spoke
wheels. More important is the quality of the build (proper spoke
tension, stress relieved, etc.).

> 3) Are touring bikes generally stronger than race bikes?

Yes, in general. But also somewhat wider tires at lower pressure. That
helps on rough pavement or dirt roads. They also have more clearance
between tires and brakes / chainstays.

> 4) Is the same rider generally faster or a race bike?

Not much.

> 5) Do any manufactures warranty their frames & forks in the road bike
> world?

I hear Trek has a good warranty policy.

>
> I've read of riders such as Jobst successfully using road bicycles on
> rides with a couple miles of trail thrown in and logging many thousands
> of miles. I've not heard anything about Jobst's weight or chosen
> ride but am still encouraged by this.

Jobst is pretty light for a tall guy, and he rides a steel bike built
with long chainstays and some beefed up tubes and as I recall.

http://mly.smugmug.com/photos/73060129-M.jpg

Art Harris

01-16-2007, 10:25 AM

On 16 Jan 2007 07:09:13 -0800, "Dan in Dover" <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]>
may have said:

>I'm thinking of using a piece of the upcoming tax return to add my
>first real road bike to the collection. While I'd like something
>reasonably lightweight my main concern is strength. I weigh in closer
>to 200lbs than I should and do not have the lightest riding style in
>the world. I'm concerned that an aluminum frame & fork will not hold
>up to my weight riding off city curbs or the occasional trail detour
>thrown into a daylong road ride.
>
>Now for the questions:
>1) Am I correct in assuming that I should be looking for a steel frame
>and fork?

You'll probably be safer that way, but your options will be limited.
I wouldn't discount aluminum.

>2) I'm thinking 36 spoke wheels. Is that enough? Overkill?
>Material or model suggestions?

In order; Yes, no, avoid certain Mavics [Google for mavic crack]

>3) Are touring bikes generally stronger than race bikes?

IME, they are more durable in everyday use, but not necessarily
"stronger".

>4) Is the same rider generally faster or a race bike?

I assume you meant "on". Sometimes, as long as it's the right bike.

>5) Do any manufactures warranty their frames & forks in the road bike
>world?

Yes. Most of them, for that matter, but only to the original
purchaser. The frame is less likely to fail than you might think,
though. The components I look at most closely are the wheels. I
personally find the ubiquitous low-spoke-count "squirrel dicers"
unsuitable for everyday usage. This does not keep large numbers of
riders from using them every day without problems.

>I've read of riders such as Jobst successfully using road bicycles on
>rides with a couple miles of trail thrown in and logging many thousands
>of miles. I've not heard anything about Jobst's weight or chosen
>ride but am still encouraged by this.

Jobst's experiences must be viewed in the light of his long time in
the saddle. I would not suggest trying to take a skinny-tire bike
into an off-road environmment where significant amounts of loose sand,
soft dirt. or deep gravel will be encountered; the narrow tires tend
to make a bike difficult to control in such circumstances. A very
skillful and observant rider can often cope with such developments,
often without even thinking about it, but the punter or mid-level
rider may find out too late that they didn't use sufficient caution
when approaching an obstacle that a fat-tire bike might have rolled
over with no problem.

Much depends on where you ride. You'll have to weigh the factors
yourself.

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