New wheels, new tires (difference between 700x25, 26, & 28?) - Page 8 - Cycling Mob: Road Cycling, Mountain Biking and More

06-15-2004, 07:40 PM

Steve Knight <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> writes:

>> Thanks, Frank. I've already ordered some 26s, but when I current
>> ones wear out I'll move to something a bit bigger, if I haven't
>> lost more weight by then.

> I use 25's (that's the max that will fit my bike) and when I started
> I was 270 now 235) the only problems I had was when I did not keep
> them inflated to the max PSI but my ride is a bit bumpy.

That's a good reason not to by that kind of frame. How do you ride on
wet roads or even or dirt roads with not enough clearance to fit the
nest larger tire (1mm in radius)?

Jobst Brandt
[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]

06-15-2004, 07:58 PM

Frank Krygowski writes:

>> I've a heavy rider (240lbs). My current wheels (28 spokes on the
>> rear) have 700x26c tires.

>> I've ordered new wheels due to spokes breaking on the rear (36
>> spokes on the rear). I'm thinking of putting 700x25c or 700x28c
>> tires on this one...will I notice any significant differences?

This may not solve the spoke breakage problem, because that could lie
with the wheel builder, but 36-spoke is certainly along my thinking.

> Personally, I'd go with at least 28. If I had your weight, I'd
> probably look at 32 mm, if it would clear the frame and brakes.

I'm for that but why two different rim and hub types? Get front and
rear 36-spoke wheels and ride the same tire front and rear. If you
put on many miles, you'll realize that replacing tires, tubes, rims,
and spokes is a lot more convenient if they are the same front and
rear, although spoke length is probably a couple of mm different.

> A narrow tire might give very slightly less rolling resistance on
> perfectly smooth roads, but if the road has any significant
> roughness, you'll probably be better off with a wider tire.

Very true but the smaller and necessarily harder tire puts more
vibrating stress, the stress that causes failures, to be exerted on
all components between road and saddle.

> A wider tire (assuming you inflate it enough) also provides more
> protection from pinch flats or "snake bite" flats.

Of course, and cornering traction is better, if you do that sort of
thing, because more road contact is maintained over rough pavement.

I don't worry about how you will be judged for riding 36-spokes or
pedaling at cadences under 100 (as is common here). Get out there

Ride bike!

Jobst Brandt
[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]

06-15-2004, 07:58 PM

Frank Krygowski writes:

>> I've a heavy rider (240lbs). My current wheels (28 spokes on the
>> rear) have 700x26c tires.

>> I've ordered new wheels due to spokes breaking on the rear (36
>> spokes on the rear). I'm thinking of putting 700x25c or 700x28c
>> tires on this one...will I notice any significant differences?

This may not solve the spoke breakage problem, because that could lie
with the wheel builder, but 36-spoke is certainly along my thinking.

> Personally, I'd go with at least 28. If I had your weight, I'd
> probably look at 32 mm, if it would clear the frame and brakes.

I'm for that but why two different rim and hub types? Get front and
rear 36-spoke wheels and ride the same tire front and rear. If you
put on many miles, you'll realize that replacing tires, tubes, rims,
and spokes is a lot more convenient if they are the same front and
rear, although spoke length is probably a couple of mm different.

> A narrow tire might give very slightly less rolling resistance on
> perfectly smooth roads, but if the road has any significant
> roughness, you'll probably be better off with a wider tire.

Very true but the smaller and necessarily harder tire puts more
vibrating stress, the stress that causes failures, to be exerted on
all components between road and saddle.

> A wider tire (assuming you inflate it enough) also provides more
> protection from pinch flats or "snake bite" flats.

Of course, and cornering traction is better, if you do that sort of
thing, because more road contact is maintained over rough pavement.

I don't worry about how you will be judged for riding 36-spokes or
pedaling at cadences under 100 (as is common here). Get out there

Ride bike!

Jobst Brandt
[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]

06-15-2004, 07:58 PM

Frank Krygowski writes:

>> I've a heavy rider (240lbs). My current wheels (28 spokes on the
>> rear) have 700x26c tires.

>> I've ordered new wheels due to spokes breaking on the rear (36
>> spokes on the rear). I'm thinking of putting 700x25c or 700x28c
>> tires on this one...will I notice any significant differences?

This may not solve the spoke breakage problem, because that could lie
with the wheel builder, but 36-spoke is certainly along my thinking.

> Personally, I'd go with at least 28. If I had your weight, I'd
> probably look at 32 mm, if it would clear the frame and brakes.

I'm for that but why two different rim and hub types? Get front and
rear 36-spoke wheels and ride the same tire front and rear. If you
put on many miles, you'll realize that replacing tires, tubes, rims,
and spokes is a lot more convenient if they are the same front and
rear, although spoke length is probably a couple of mm different.

> A narrow tire might give very slightly less rolling resistance on
> perfectly smooth roads, but if the road has any significant
> roughness, you'll probably be better off with a wider tire.

Very true but the smaller and necessarily harder tire puts more
vibrating stress, the stress that causes failures, to be exerted on
all components between road and saddle.

> A wider tire (assuming you inflate it enough) also provides more
> protection from pinch flats or "snake bite" flats.

Of course, and cornering traction is better, if you do that sort of
thing, because more road contact is maintained over rough pavement.

I don't worry about how you will be judged for riding 36-spokes or
pedaling at cadences under 100 (as is common here). Get out there

Ride bike!

Jobst Brandt
[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]

06-15-2004, 07:58 PM

Frank Krygowski writes:

>> I've a heavy rider (240lbs). My current wheels (28 spokes on the
>> rear) have 700x26c tires.

>> I've ordered new wheels due to spokes breaking on the rear (36
>> spokes on the rear). I'm thinking of putting 700x25c or 700x28c
>> tires on this one...will I notice any significant differences?

This may not solve the spoke breakage problem, because that could lie
with the wheel builder, but 36-spoke is certainly along my thinking.

> Personally, I'd go with at least 28. If I had your weight, I'd
> probably look at 32 mm, if it would clear the frame and brakes.

I'm for that but why two different rim and hub types? Get front and
rear 36-spoke wheels and ride the same tire front and rear. If you
put on many miles, you'll realize that replacing tires, tubes, rims,
and spokes is a lot more convenient if they are the same front and
rear, although spoke length is probably a couple of mm different.

> A narrow tire might give very slightly less rolling resistance on
> perfectly smooth roads, but if the road has any significant
> roughness, you'll probably be better off with a wider tire.

Very true but the smaller and necessarily harder tire puts more
vibrating stress, the stress that causes failures, to be exerted on
all components between road and saddle.

> A wider tire (assuming you inflate it enough) also provides more
> protection from pinch flats or "snake bite" flats.

Of course, and cornering traction is better, if you do that sort of
thing, because more road contact is maintained over rough pavement.

I don't worry about how you will be judged for riding 36-spokes or
pedaling at cadences under 100 (as is common here). Get out there

Ride bike!

Jobst Brandt
[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]

06-15-2004, 07:58 PM

Frank Krygowski writes:

>> I've a heavy rider (240lbs). My current wheels (28 spokes on the
>> rear) have 700x26c tires.

>> I've ordered new wheels due to spokes breaking on the rear (36
>> spokes on the rear). I'm thinking of putting 700x25c or 700x28c
>> tires on this one...will I notice any significant differences?

This may not solve the spoke breakage problem, because that could lie
with the wheel builder, but 36-spoke is certainly along my thinking.

> Personally, I'd go with at least 28. If I had your weight, I'd
> probably look at 32 mm, if it would clear the frame and brakes.

I'm for that but why two different rim and hub types? Get front and
rear 36-spoke wheels and ride the same tire front and rear. If you
put on many miles, you'll realize that replacing tires, tubes, rims,
and spokes is a lot more convenient if they are the same front and
rear, although spoke length is probably a couple of mm different.

> A narrow tire might give very slightly less rolling resistance on
> perfectly smooth roads, but if the road has any significant
> roughness, you'll probably be better off with a wider tire.

Very true but the smaller and necessarily harder tire puts more
vibrating stress, the stress that causes failures, to be exerted on
all components between road and saddle.

> A wider tire (assuming you inflate it enough) also provides more
> protection from pinch flats or "snake bite" flats.

Of course, and cornering traction is better, if you do that sort of
thing, because more road contact is maintained over rough pavement.

I don't worry about how you will be judged for riding 36-spokes or
pedaling at cadences under 100 (as is common here). Get out there

Ride bike!

Jobst Brandt
[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]

06-15-2004, 07:58 PM

Steve Knight <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> writes:

>> Thanks, Frank. I've already ordered some 26s, but when I current
>> ones wear out I'll move to something a bit bigger, if I haven't
>> lost more weight by then.

> I use 25's (that's the max that will fit my bike) and when I started
> I was 270 now 235) the only problems I had was when I did not keep
> them inflated to the max PSI but my ride is a bit bumpy.

That's a good reason not to by that kind of frame. How do you ride on
wet roads or even or dirt roads with not enough clearance to fit the
next larger tire (1mm in radius)?

Jobst Brandt
[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]

06-15-2004, 07:58 PM

Steve Knight <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> writes:

>> Thanks, Frank. I've already ordered some 26s, but when I current
>> ones wear out I'll move to something a bit bigger, if I haven't
>> lost more weight by then.

> I use 25's (that's the max that will fit my bike) and when I started
> I was 270 now 235) the only problems I had was when I did not keep
> them inflated to the max PSI but my ride is a bit bumpy.

That's a good reason not to by that kind of frame. How do you ride on
wet roads or even or dirt roads with not enough clearance to fit the
next larger tire (1mm in radius)?

Jobst Brandt
[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]

06-15-2004, 07:58 PM

Steve Knight <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> writes:

>> Thanks, Frank. I've already ordered some 26s, but when I current
>> ones wear out I'll move to something a bit bigger, if I haven't
>> lost more weight by then.

> I use 25's (that's the max that will fit my bike) and when I started
> I was 270 now 235) the only problems I had was when I did not keep
> them inflated to the max PSI but my ride is a bit bumpy.

That's a good reason not to by that kind of frame. How do you ride on
wet roads or even or dirt roads with not enough clearance to fit the
next larger tire (1mm in radius)?

Jobst Brandt
[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]

06-15-2004, 07:58 PM

Steve Knight <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> writes:

>> Thanks, Frank. I've already ordered some 26s, but when I current
>> ones wear out I'll move to something a bit bigger, if I haven't
>> lost more weight by then.

> I use 25's (that's the max that will fit my bike) and when I started
> I was 270 now 235) the only problems I had was when I did not keep
> them inflated to the max PSI but my ride is a bit bumpy.

That's a good reason not to by that kind of frame. How do you ride on
wet roads or even or dirt roads with not enough clearance to fit the
next larger tire (1mm in radius)?

Jobst Brandt
[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]