Cyclocross bike fit different? - Cycling Mob: Road Cycling, Mountain Biking and More

07-10-2004, 04:18 AM

I have started looking at cyclocross bikes, which I want for
commuting/touring and dirt road riding. One shop I was at recommended
getting a frame TWO sizes smaller than my road bike frame, which is a
56 for my Fuji. The explanation was that the bottom bracket was
higher, so you need to go to the smaller size to have the proper
stand-over height. Do experienced cyclocrossers agree with this
recommendation. Yes, I know there are different methods of measuring
the frame sizes on road bikes, so this may not be exact. But does it
work in general?

07-11-2004, 11:41 AM

[Only registered and activated users can see links. ] (Bryan C) wrote in message news:<491cfcc1.0407100418.4e8bbc55@posting.google. com>...
> I have started looking at cyclocross bikes, which I want for
> commuting/touring and dirt road riding. One shop I was at recommended
> getting a frame TWO sizes smaller than my road bike frame, which is a
> 56 for my Fuji. The explanation was that the bottom bracket was
> higher, so you need to go to the smaller size to have the proper
> stand-over height. Do experienced cyclocrossers agree with this
> recommendation. Yes, I know there are different methods of measuring
> the frame sizes on road bikes, so this may not be exact. But does it
> work in general?

Bryan,
I bought a cross bike a couple of years ago and have been using it for
commuting, trail riding and road riding. It has virtually replaced my
road bike since the cross bike is more comfortable and fun to ride.
It is the same frame size as my road bike. I have taken it onto
pretty rough, rocky trails and don't have a problem with stand over
height. I rarely need to straddle the top tube though.

I would recommend you buy a frame that feels the best for the type of
riding that will put the most miles on your bike. Buying a small frame
would make commuting and touring uncomfortable. Plus, if you will be
racing it in cyclocross, you mount and dismount, but don't need to
straddle the tube, so I don't see how that would make a difference.
Brad

07-11-2004, 11:41 AM

[Only registered and activated users can see links. ] (Bryan C) wrote in message news:<491cfcc1.0407100418.4e8bbc55@posting.google. com>...
> I have started looking at cyclocross bikes, which I want for
> commuting/touring and dirt road riding. One shop I was at recommended
> getting a frame TWO sizes smaller than my road bike frame, which is a
> 56 for my Fuji. The explanation was that the bottom bracket was
> higher, so you need to go to the smaller size to have the proper
> stand-over height. Do experienced cyclocrossers agree with this
> recommendation. Yes, I know there are different methods of measuring
> the frame sizes on road bikes, so this may not be exact. But does it
> work in general?

Bryan,
I bought a cross bike a couple of years ago and have been using it for
commuting, trail riding and road riding. It has virtually replaced my
road bike since the cross bike is more comfortable and fun to ride.
It is the same frame size as my road bike. I have taken it onto
pretty rough, rocky trails and don't have a problem with stand over
height. I rarely need to straddle the top tube though.

I would recommend you buy a frame that feels the best for the type of
riding that will put the most miles on your bike. Buying a small frame
would make commuting and touring uncomfortable. Plus, if you will be
racing it in cyclocross, you mount and dismount, but don't need to
straddle the tube, so I don't see how that would make a difference.
Brad

07-11-2004, 11:41 AM

[Only registered and activated users can see links. ] (Bryan C) wrote in message news:<491cfcc1.0407100418.4e8bbc55@posting.google. com>...
> I have started looking at cyclocross bikes, which I want for
> commuting/touring and dirt road riding. One shop I was at recommended
> getting a frame TWO sizes smaller than my road bike frame, which is a
> 56 for my Fuji. The explanation was that the bottom bracket was
> higher, so you need to go to the smaller size to have the proper
> stand-over height. Do experienced cyclocrossers agree with this
> recommendation. Yes, I know there are different methods of measuring
> the frame sizes on road bikes, so this may not be exact. But does it
> work in general?

Bryan,
I bought a cross bike a couple of years ago and have been using it for
commuting, trail riding and road riding. It has virtually replaced my
road bike since the cross bike is more comfortable and fun to ride.
It is the same frame size as my road bike. I have taken it onto
pretty rough, rocky trails and don't have a problem with stand over
height. I rarely need to straddle the top tube though.

I would recommend you buy a frame that feels the best for the type of
riding that will put the most miles on your bike. Buying a small frame
would make commuting and touring uncomfortable. Plus, if you will be
racing it in cyclocross, you mount and dismount, but don't need to
straddle the tube, so I don't see how that would make a difference.
Brad

07-11-2004, 11:41 AM

[Only registered and activated users can see links. ] (Bryan C) wrote in message news:<491cfcc1.0407100418.4e8bbc55@posting.google. com>...
> I have started looking at cyclocross bikes, which I want for
> commuting/touring and dirt road riding. One shop I was at recommended
> getting a frame TWO sizes smaller than my road bike frame, which is a
> 56 for my Fuji. The explanation was that the bottom bracket was
> higher, so you need to go to the smaller size to have the proper
> stand-over height. Do experienced cyclocrossers agree with this
> recommendation. Yes, I know there are different methods of measuring
> the frame sizes on road bikes, so this may not be exact. But does it
> work in general?

Bryan,
I bought a cross bike a couple of years ago and have been using it for
commuting, trail riding and road riding. It has virtually replaced my
road bike since the cross bike is more comfortable and fun to ride.
It is the same frame size as my road bike. I have taken it onto
pretty rough, rocky trails and don't have a problem with stand over
height. I rarely need to straddle the top tube though.

I would recommend you buy a frame that feels the best for the type of
riding that will put the most miles on your bike. Buying a small frame
would make commuting and touring uncomfortable. Plus, if you will be
racing it in cyclocross, you mount and dismount, but don't need to
straddle the tube, so I don't see how that would make a difference.
Brad

07-11-2004, 11:41 AM

[Only registered and activated users can see links. ] (Bryan C) wrote in message news:<491cfcc1.0407100418.4e8bbc55@posting.google. com>...
> I have started looking at cyclocross bikes, which I want for
> commuting/touring and dirt road riding. One shop I was at recommended
> getting a frame TWO sizes smaller than my road bike frame, which is a
> 56 for my Fuji. The explanation was that the bottom bracket was
> higher, so you need to go to the smaller size to have the proper
> stand-over height. Do experienced cyclocrossers agree with this
> recommendation. Yes, I know there are different methods of measuring
> the frame sizes on road bikes, so this may not be exact. But does it
> work in general?

Bryan,
I bought a cross bike a couple of years ago and have been using it for
commuting, trail riding and road riding. It has virtually replaced my
road bike since the cross bike is more comfortable and fun to ride.
It is the same frame size as my road bike. I have taken it onto
pretty rough, rocky trails and don't have a problem with stand over
height. I rarely need to straddle the top tube though.

I would recommend you buy a frame that feels the best for the type of
riding that will put the most miles on your bike. Buying a small frame
would make commuting and touring uncomfortable. Plus, if you will be
racing it in cyclocross, you mount and dismount, but don't need to
straddle the tube, so I don't see how that would make a difference.
Brad

07-12-2004, 01:05 AM

[Only registered and activated users can see links. ] (Bryan C) wrote:

> I have started looking at cyclocross bikes, which I want for
> commuting/touring and dirt road riding. One shop I was at recommended
> getting a frame TWO sizes smaller than my road bike frame, which is a
> 56 for my Fuji. The explanation was that the bottom bracket was
> higher, so you need to go to the smaller size to have the proper
> stand-over height. Do experienced cyclocrossers agree with this
> recommendation. Yes, I know there are different methods of measuring
> the frame sizes on road bikes, so this may not be exact. But does it
> work in general?

Not necessarily, and it may not work at all if you can't get the bars
high enough. A small-size bike is a problem, unless it has a long
head tube and upsloping toptube, perhaps.

Unscheduled get-offs are more common in cross than on the road, but not
an issue for commuting and dirt-road riding. Still, standover is never
really the first priority in bike fit - you rarely straddle the bike
dead upright in your socks.

For more on cyclocross bike fit see Adam Myerson's article at

[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]

07-12-2004, 01:05 AM

[Only registered and activated users can see links. ] (Bryan C) wrote:

> I have started looking at cyclocross bikes, which I want for
> commuting/touring and dirt road riding. One shop I was at recommended
> getting a frame TWO sizes smaller than my road bike frame, which is a
> 56 for my Fuji. The explanation was that the bottom bracket was
> higher, so you need to go to the smaller size to have the proper
> stand-over height. Do experienced cyclocrossers agree with this
> recommendation. Yes, I know there are different methods of measuring
> the frame sizes on road bikes, so this may not be exact. But does it
> work in general?

Not necessarily, and it may not work at all if you can't get the bars
high enough. A small-size bike is a problem, unless it has a long
head tube and upsloping toptube, perhaps.

Unscheduled get-offs are more common in cross than on the road, but not
an issue for commuting and dirt-road riding. Still, standover is never
really the first priority in bike fit - you rarely straddle the bike
dead upright in your socks.

For more on cyclocross bike fit see Adam Myerson's article at

[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]

07-12-2004, 01:05 AM

[Only registered and activated users can see links. ] (Bryan C) wrote:

> I have started looking at cyclocross bikes, which I want for
> commuting/touring and dirt road riding. One shop I was at recommended
> getting a frame TWO sizes smaller than my road bike frame, which is a
> 56 for my Fuji. The explanation was that the bottom bracket was
> higher, so you need to go to the smaller size to have the proper
> stand-over height. Do experienced cyclocrossers agree with this
> recommendation. Yes, I know there are different methods of measuring
> the frame sizes on road bikes, so this may not be exact. But does it
> work in general?

Not necessarily, and it may not work at all if you can't get the bars
high enough. A small-size bike is a problem, unless it has a long
head tube and upsloping toptube, perhaps.

Unscheduled get-offs are more common in cross than on the road, but not
an issue for commuting and dirt-road riding. Still, standover is never
really the first priority in bike fit - you rarely straddle the bike
dead upright in your socks.

For more on cyclocross bike fit see Adam Myerson's article at

[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]

07-12-2004, 01:05 AM

[Only registered and activated users can see links. ] (Bryan C) wrote:

> I have started looking at cyclocross bikes, which I want for
> commuting/touring and dirt road riding. One shop I was at recommended
> getting a frame TWO sizes smaller than my road bike frame, which is a
> 56 for my Fuji. The explanation was that the bottom bracket was
> higher, so you need to go to the smaller size to have the proper
> stand-over height. Do experienced cyclocrossers agree with this
> recommendation. Yes, I know there are different methods of measuring
> the frame sizes on road bikes, so this may not be exact. But does it
> work in general?

Not necessarily, and it may not work at all if you can't get the bars
high enough. A small-size bike is a problem, unless it has a long
head tube and upsloping toptube, perhaps.

Unscheduled get-offs are more common in cross than on the road, but not
an issue for commuting and dirt-road riding. Still, standover is never
really the first priority in bike fit - you rarely straddle the bike
dead upright in your socks.

For more on cyclocross bike fit see Adam Myerson's article at

[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]