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07-20-2004, 07:19 PM
| #21 (permalink) |
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Posts: n/a
| Re: what kind of bike at $300 price? many thanks but the krono is not sold in new york. maxo <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> wrote in message news:<[Only registered and activated users can see links. ] >... > On Tue, 20 Jul 2004 08:38:48 -0700, humblejohn wrote: > > > Is fuji a good > > reliable bike? the most reasonable dealer in my area seems to be pushing > > them Not sure. need help. thanks in advance. > > Fujis are fine, as are many mass market ~300 bikes. > > You can get a perfectly good entry level "hybrid" bike for 300 bucks, but > I'd steer clear of any suspension gizmos, get a bike with a real fork and > save yourself the headache of breaking a cheap suspension fork. Around > here the preferred cheaper entry model is the Marin San Anselmo. The > frame's a bit rigid in my opinion, but since you're a bigger guy--the > strength might be a good thing. > > Personally, if I lived in a flatter area and wanted a bike for just > tooling around, I'd get a Kronan. I've owned one before, and they're awe > inspiring. They weigh 46lbs and who cares? You'll get there in style. > These and the ****roaches will survive after a nuclear blast LOL: > > [Only registered and activated users can see links. ] > > $359 for the single speed. You know you want one.  |
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07-20-2004, 10:08 PM
| #22 (permalink) |
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Posts: n/a
| Re: what kind of bike at $300 price? On Tue, 20 Jul 2004 22:19:15 -0500, "Mike Kruger" <MikeKr@mouse-potato.com> wrote: >More important for you is to find a good guy at a dealer who will help you >find what you need. > This is the key, especially for someone who is new to bikes. Shop for a bike shop! Find a place that you would feel good about giving your money, a place that you can walk into a week later with a question or a month later for an adjustment, etc. In some ways it may cost you more, but the advice and help is worth every penny. A suggestion- make another post using 'clydesdale' or 'heavy guy' or something like that in the subject. There's a lot of knowledge and experience around here, and using the right 'bait' will get some of the heavier people talking. Use 'older' also?  Clydesdale is a common way for heavier people to refer to themselves in the bike world, by the way. No insult intended! Oh, one thing I haven't seen mentioned- wheels!!! Be sure to find a shop that will go over your wheels, stress relieve them before you pick it up, etc. |
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07-20-2004, 10:08 PM
| #23 (permalink) |
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Posts: n/a
| Re: what kind of bike at $300 price? On Tue, 20 Jul 2004 22:19:15 -0500, "Mike Kruger" <MikeKr@mouse-potato.com> wrote: >More important for you is to find a good guy at a dealer who will help you >find what you need. > This is the key, especially for someone who is new to bikes. Shop for a bike shop! Find a place that you would feel good about giving your money, a place that you can walk into a week later with a question or a month later for an adjustment, etc. In some ways it may cost you more, but the advice and help is worth every penny. A suggestion- make another post using 'clydesdale' or 'heavy guy' or something like that in the subject. There's a lot of knowledge and experience around here, and using the right 'bait' will get some of the heavier people talking. Use 'older' also? Clydesdale is a common way for heavier people to refer to themselves in the bike world, by the way. No insult intended! Oh, one thing I haven't seen mentioned- wheels!!! Be sure to find a shop that will go over your wheels, stress relieve them before you pick it up, etc. |
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07-20-2004, 10:08 PM
| #24 (permalink) |
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Posts: n/a
| Re: what kind of bike at $300 price? On Tue, 20 Jul 2004 22:19:15 -0500, "Mike Kruger" <MikeKr@mouse-potato.com> wrote: >More important for you is to find a good guy at a dealer who will help you >find what you need. > This is the key, especially for someone who is new to bikes. Shop for a bike shop! Find a place that you would feel good about giving your money, a place that you can walk into a week later with a question or a month later for an adjustment, etc. In some ways it may cost you more, but the advice and help is worth every penny. A suggestion- make another post using 'clydesdale' or 'heavy guy' or something like that in the subject. There's a lot of knowledge and experience around here, and using the right 'bait' will get some of the heavier people talking. Use 'older' also? Clydesdale is a common way for heavier people to refer to themselves in the bike world, by the way. No insult intended! Oh, one thing I haven't seen mentioned- wheels!!! Be sure to find a shop that will go over your wheels, stress relieve them before you pick it up, etc. |
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07-20-2004, 10:08 PM
| #25 (permalink) |
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Posts: n/a
| Re: what kind of bike at $300 price? On Tue, 20 Jul 2004 22:19:15 -0500, "Mike Kruger" <MikeKr@mouse-potato.com> wrote: >More important for you is to find a good guy at a dealer who will help you >find what you need. > This is the key, especially for someone who is new to bikes. Shop for a bike shop! Find a place that you would feel good about giving your money, a place that you can walk into a week later with a question or a month later for an adjustment, etc. In some ways it may cost you more, but the advice and help is worth every penny. A suggestion- make another post using 'clydesdale' or 'heavy guy' or something like that in the subject. There's a lot of knowledge and experience around here, and using the right 'bait' will get some of the heavier people talking. Use 'older' also? Clydesdale is a common way for heavier people to refer to themselves in the bike world, by the way. No insult intended! Oh, one thing I haven't seen mentioned- wheels!!! Be sure to find a shop that will go over your wheels, stress relieve them before you pick it up, etc. |
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07-20-2004, 10:08 PM
| #26 (permalink) |
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Posts: n/a
| Re: what kind of bike at $300 price? On Tue, 20 Jul 2004 22:19:15 -0500, "Mike Kruger" <MikeKr@mouse-potato.com> wrote: >More important for you is to find a good guy at a dealer who will help you >find what you need. > This is the key, especially for someone who is new to bikes. Shop for a bike shop! Find a place that you would feel good about giving your money, a place that you can walk into a week later with a question or a month later for an adjustment, etc. In some ways it may cost you more, but the advice and help is worth every penny. A suggestion- make another post using 'clydesdale' or 'heavy guy' or something like that in the subject. There's a lot of knowledge and experience around here, and using the right 'bait' will get some of the heavier people talking. Use 'older' also? Clydesdale is a common way for heavier people to refer to themselves in the bike world, by the way. No insult intended! Oh, one thing I haven't seen mentioned- wheels!!! Be sure to find a shop that will go over your wheels, stress relieve them before you pick it up, etc. |
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07-21-2004, 03:06 AM
| #27 (permalink) |
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Posts: n/a
| Re: what kind of bike at $300 price? Emailed & posted on NG The problem with buying a bike in a toy shop is that's what you'll get - a toy. Something that is likely to be so heavy it's *not* going to help you enjoy cycling and the components are likely to be made of cheese ;-) In the world of bikes cheap too often means cheap and not good value. Saying that, you don't have to spend a fortune to get somthing halfway decent. I suggest you buy cycling mags with lots of adverts in and is possible, bike tests. Read - often and in detail - inwardly digest. Visit *lots* of bike shops - specialist bike shops, not ones where there's a passing nod to cycling, or a toy shop. Try out various bikes. Do not buy the first one you try. Look at web sites of bike manufacturers and bike retailers - get the background knowledge to help you make the right choice. Here's my experience - Years ago I had a bike which was a *cheap* one. It was built in eastern europe from lead girders - well it weighed as if it was made of lead girders. It made cycling hell. The bike was little used. It was in the back of a garage for years. When I had my child, it had a child seat mounted behind the seat and it was my normal transport out of necessity at thet time. It was *not* enjoyable. Then I was bought a new bike - one of much better quality and lighter. Overnight my mileages doubled and I actually started to *enjoy* cycling for the first time in years. The difference between a cheap bike and a reasonable on *is* that noticeable. I've still got that bike. Then a couple of years ago, Santa was particularly generous to me and he delivered an even better bike (a Bianchi San Remo, second hand). Once again, my mileages and level of enjoyment increased. If you are going in at bottom level prices, do not buy a bike with suspension. Cheap suspension is rubbish. Consider buying a more expensive bike second hand, to get quality at a budget price. Look for last year's and the year before's models. The paint jobs will have changed but the components don't change that much, so you can save a lot of money on a decent bike that way. Think about the type of cycling you are going to be doing. Unless you are going to be doing serious off-roading, I'd argue you don't need suspension. Cycling on road, cycle paths, and light off-road doesn't require suspension. Indeed suspension on bikes when riding on tarmac is a waste of energy. Be prepared to make changes to any bike you buy - thinking particularly of the saddle. What constitutes a comfortable saddle is a very individual thing. Other things I'd recommend... Cycle shorts with padded bottoms! Honestly - I'm never on a bike without wearing a pair - I wear them underneath my trousers. Jeans are not a good thing to wear when cycling - the fabric and seams can be hard and cause *nasty* chafing of those delicate nether regions. You may wish to consider mudguards (fenders on the other side of the pond to me??) which are a godsend in wet weather, and front/rear lights. You are a big guy, but this doesn't mean you need a frame made of lead to carry you :-) Finally - if you haven't been on a bike before or for a long time and are generally unfit - take it slowly at first and do not think you are a wuss if you have to get off and walk. Little and often is the way to go. Don't try and over extend yourself. Little and often - *gradually* increasing distances and speed is key. Most of all - enjoy it. A couple of years ago when I first got back on the bike I couldn't cycle five miles without getting off to catch my breath several times... now I'm comfortable to 50+ miles and thoroughly enjoy my cycling. I may not be fast, I may not be slim, but I'm loads fitter than I used to be, which is borne out by the tests don at the docs. Hope this helps a bit. Cheers, helen s --This is an invalid email address to avoid spam-- to get correct one remove fame & fortune h*$el*$$e*nd**$o$ts**i*$*$m*m$o*n*s@$*a$o*l.c**$om $ --Due to financial crisis the light at the end of the tunnel is switched off-- |
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07-21-2004, 03:06 AM
| #28 (permalink) |
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Posts: n/a
| Re: what kind of bike at $300 price? Emailed & posted on NG The problem with buying a bike in a toy shop is that's what you'll get - a toy. Something that is likely to be so heavy it's *not* going to help you enjoy cycling and the components are likely to be made of cheese ;-) In the world of bikes cheap too often means cheap and not good value. Saying that, you don't have to spend a fortune to get somthing halfway decent. I suggest you buy cycling mags with lots of adverts in and is possible, bike tests. Read - often and in detail - inwardly digest. Visit *lots* of bike shops - specialist bike shops, not ones where there's a passing nod to cycling, or a toy shop. Try out various bikes. Do not buy the first one you try. Look at web sites of bike manufacturers and bike retailers - get the background knowledge to help you make the right choice. Here's my experience - Years ago I had a bike which was a *cheap* one. It was built in eastern europe from lead girders - well it weighed as if it was made of lead girders. It made cycling hell. The bike was little used. It was in the back of a garage for years. When I had my child, it had a child seat mounted behind the seat and it was my normal transport out of necessity at thet time. It was *not* enjoyable. Then I was bought a new bike - one of much better quality and lighter. Overnight my mileages doubled and I actually started to *enjoy* cycling for the first time in years. The difference between a cheap bike and a reasonable on *is* that noticeable. I've still got that bike. Then a couple of years ago, Santa was particularly generous to me and he delivered an even better bike (a Bianchi San Remo, second hand). Once again, my mileages and level of enjoyment increased. If you are going in at bottom level prices, do not buy a bike with suspension. Cheap suspension is rubbish. Consider buying a more expensive bike second hand, to get quality at a budget price. Look for last year's and the year before's models. The paint jobs will have changed but the components don't change that much, so you can save a lot of money on a decent bike that way. Think about the type of cycling you are going to be doing. Unless you are going to be doing serious off-roading, I'd argue you don't need suspension. Cycling on road, cycle paths, and light off-road doesn't require suspension. Indeed suspension on bikes when riding on tarmac is a waste of energy. Be prepared to make changes to any bike you buy - thinking particularly of the saddle. What constitutes a comfortable saddle is a very individual thing. Other things I'd recommend... Cycle shorts with padded bottoms! Honestly - I'm never on a bike without wearing a pair - I wear them underneath my trousers. Jeans are not a good thing to wear when cycling - the fabric and seams can be hard and cause *nasty* chafing of those delicate nether regions. You may wish to consider mudguards (fenders on the other side of the pond to me??) which are a godsend in wet weather, and front/rear lights. You are a big guy, but this doesn't mean you need a frame made of lead to carry you :-) Finally - if you haven't been on a bike before or for a long time and are generally unfit - take it slowly at first and do not think you are a wuss if you have to get off and walk. Little and often is the way to go. Don't try and over extend yourself. Little and often - *gradually* increasing distances and speed is key. Most of all - enjoy it. A couple of years ago when I first got back on the bike I couldn't cycle five miles without getting off to catch my breath several times... now I'm comfortable to 50+ miles and thoroughly enjoy my cycling. I may not be fast, I may not be slim, but I'm loads fitter than I used to be, which is borne out by the tests don at the docs. Hope this helps a bit. Cheers, helen s --This is an invalid email address to avoid spam-- to get correct one remove fame & fortune h*$el*$$e*nd**$o$ts**i*$*$m*m$o*n*s@$*a$o*l.c**$om $ --Due to financial crisis the light at the end of the tunnel is switched off-- |
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07-21-2004, 03:06 AM
| #29 (permalink) |
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Posts: n/a
| Re: what kind of bike at $300 price? Emailed & posted on NG The problem with buying a bike in a toy shop is that's what you'll get - a toy. Something that is likely to be so heavy it's *not* going to help you enjoy cycling and the components are likely to be made of cheese ;-) In the world of bikes cheap too often means cheap and not good value. Saying that, you don't have to spend a fortune to get somthing halfway decent. I suggest you buy cycling mags with lots of adverts in and is possible, bike tests. Read - often and in detail - inwardly digest. Visit *lots* of bike shops - specialist bike shops, not ones where there's a passing nod to cycling, or a toy shop. Try out various bikes. Do not buy the first one you try. Look at web sites of bike manufacturers and bike retailers - get the background knowledge to help you make the right choice. Here's my experience - Years ago I had a bike which was a *cheap* one. It was built in eastern europe from lead girders - well it weighed as if it was made of lead girders. It made cycling hell. The bike was little used. It was in the back of a garage for years. When I had my child, it had a child seat mounted behind the seat and it was my normal transport out of necessity at thet time. It was *not* enjoyable. Then I was bought a new bike - one of much better quality and lighter. Overnight my mileages doubled and I actually started to *enjoy* cycling for the first time in years. The difference between a cheap bike and a reasonable on *is* that noticeable. I've still got that bike. Then a couple of years ago, Santa was particularly generous to me and he delivered an even better bike (a Bianchi San Remo, second hand). Once again, my mileages and level of enjoyment increased. If you are going in at bottom level prices, do not buy a bike with suspension. Cheap suspension is rubbish. Consider buying a more expensive bike second hand, to get quality at a budget price. Look for last year's and the year before's models. The paint jobs will have changed but the components don't change that much, so you can save a lot of money on a decent bike that way. Think about the type of cycling you are going to be doing. Unless you are going to be doing serious off-roading, I'd argue you don't need suspension. Cycling on road, cycle paths, and light off-road doesn't require suspension. Indeed suspension on bikes when riding on tarmac is a waste of energy. Be prepared to make changes to any bike you buy - thinking particularly of the saddle. What constitutes a comfortable saddle is a very individual thing. Other things I'd recommend... Cycle shorts with padded bottoms! Honestly - I'm never on a bike without wearing a pair - I wear them underneath my trousers. Jeans are not a good thing to wear when cycling - the fabric and seams can be hard and cause *nasty* chafing of those delicate nether regions. You may wish to consider mudguards (fenders on the other side of the pond to me??) which are a godsend in wet weather, and front/rear lights. You are a big guy, but this doesn't mean you need a frame made of lead to carry you :-) Finally - if you haven't been on a bike before or for a long time and are generally unfit - take it slowly at first and do not think you are a wuss if you have to get off and walk. Little and often is the way to go. Don't try and over extend yourself. Little and often - *gradually* increasing distances and speed is key. Most of all - enjoy it. A couple of years ago when I first got back on the bike I couldn't cycle five miles without getting off to catch my breath several times... now I'm comfortable to 50+ miles and thoroughly enjoy my cycling. I may not be fast, I may not be slim, but I'm loads fitter than I used to be, which is borne out by the tests don at the docs. Hope this helps a bit. Cheers, helen s --This is an invalid email address to avoid spam-- to get correct one remove fame & fortune h*$el*$$e*nd**$o$ts**i*$*$m*m$o*n*s@$*a$o*l.c**$om $ --Due to financial crisis the light at the end of the tunnel is switched off-- |
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07-21-2004, 03:06 AM
| #30 (permalink) |
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Posts: n/a
| Re: what kind of bike at $300 price? Emailed & posted on NG The problem with buying a bike in a toy shop is that's what you'll get - a toy. Something that is likely to be so heavy it's *not* going to help you enjoy cycling and the components are likely to be made of cheese ;-) In the world of bikes cheap too often means cheap and not good value. Saying that, you don't have to spend a fortune to get somthing halfway decent. I suggest you buy cycling mags with lots of adverts in and is possible, bike tests. Read - often and in detail - inwardly digest. Visit *lots* of bike shops - specialist bike shops, not ones where there's a passing nod to cycling, or a toy shop. Try out various bikes. Do not buy the first one you try. Look at web sites of bike manufacturers and bike retailers - get the background knowledge to help you make the right choice. Here's my experience - Years ago I had a bike which was a *cheap* one. It was built in eastern europe from lead girders - well it weighed as if it was made of lead girders. It made cycling hell. The bike was little used. It was in the back of a garage for years. When I had my child, it had a child seat mounted behind the seat and it was my normal transport out of necessity at thet time. It was *not* enjoyable. Then I was bought a new bike - one of much better quality and lighter. Overnight my mileages doubled and I actually started to *enjoy* cycling for the first time in years. The difference between a cheap bike and a reasonable on *is* that noticeable. I've still got that bike. Then a couple of years ago, Santa was particularly generous to me and he delivered an even better bike (a Bianchi San Remo, second hand). Once again, my mileages and level of enjoyment increased. If you are going in at bottom level prices, do not buy a bike with suspension. Cheap suspension is rubbish. Consider buying a more expensive bike second hand, to get quality at a budget price. Look for last year's and the year before's models. The paint jobs will have changed but the components don't change that much, so you can save a lot of money on a decent bike that way. Think about the type of cycling you are going to be doing. Unless you are going to be doing serious off-roading, I'd argue you don't need suspension. Cycling on road, cycle paths, and light off-road doesn't require suspension. Indeed suspension on bikes when riding on tarmac is a waste of energy. Be prepared to make changes to any bike you buy - thinking particularly of the saddle. What constitutes a comfortable saddle is a very individual thing. Other things I'd recommend... Cycle shorts with padded bottoms! Honestly - I'm never on a bike without wearing a pair - I wear them underneath my trousers. Jeans are not a good thing to wear when cycling - the fabric and seams can be hard and cause *nasty* chafing of those delicate nether regions. You may wish to consider mudguards (fenders on the other side of the pond to me??) which are a godsend in wet weather, and front/rear lights. You are a big guy, but this doesn't mean you need a frame made of lead to carry you :-) Finally - if you haven't been on a bike before or for a long time and are generally unfit - take it slowly at first and do not think you are a wuss if you have to get off and walk. Little and often is the way to go. Don't try and over extend yourself. Little and often - *gradually* increasing distances and speed is key. Most of all - enjoy it. A couple of years ago when I first got back on the bike I couldn't cycle five miles without getting off to catch my breath several times... now I'm comfortable to 50+ miles and thoroughly enjoy my cycling. I may not be fast, I may not be slim, but I'm loads fitter than I used to be, which is borne out by the tests don at the docs. Hope this helps a bit. Cheers, helen s --This is an invalid email address to avoid spam-- to get correct one remove fame & fortune h*$el*$$e*nd**$o$ts**i*$*$m*m$o*n*s@$*a$o*l.c**$om $ --Due to financial crisis the light at the end of the tunnel is switched off-- |
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