Sultry, wet & rusty

08-21-2004, 06:41 PM

I have a six-week old bike which, if the LBS used the proper bits, has a
Shimano HG-73 chain.

Two days ago I degreased the chain and derailleurs (Ultegra) with Tri-Flow
Citrus Degreaser. Removed the stuff with a small, hand-held water spray
(best I could do on 57th Street!); likewise, sprayed the frame and pretty
much everywhere else with regular tap water. Then dried it all off with a
towel.

I had to wait overnight before lubricating the bike (it was almost dark
and I had to go to supper). Yesterday I re-lubed the chain with Phil
Woods Tenacious Oil; applied Tri-Flow Dry to the brake housings and spots
where the cables went into the frame, etc. I sprayed the derailleurs with
a small amount of Finish Line Teflon Plus (also a dry lubricant) because I
wasn't sure that I'd catch all the pivot points with the Tri-Flow nozzle.

Am fairly sure I applied too much Tenacious Oil as when I was reverse
pedaling the lube formed a cobweb between the pulley and a spot an inch or
two into the chain length on the bottom side. Anyway, I wiped everything
clean.

Went out on the bike and it was almost silent. Could not hear even the
slightest whirr from the drivetrain (unlike when I bought it). Am
assuming that this was a good thing. Suspect that the Phil Woods is
thicker than the lube that was originally applied?

I was out in Manhattan about six miles from home today when lightning
cracked its charged whip through the sky and the heavens opened. Both
bike and I were truly drenched in the downpour (put my foot down on one
street and the water swelled up to my sock)!

Got home and wiped down the bike, including excess water off theh chain
(although I tried not to remove the oil with it).

Went out. Came back a few hours later.

Chain is now starting to rust on most of the rollers!

Clearly, I'll degrease and re-lube tomorrow morning (I live in a co-op and
would be evicted if I even thought about doing it in a public area at this
hour).

I'm surprised that the chain is so quickly showing signs of oxidization.
But, this is easily replaced (and I'm riding over 100 miles each week
anyway). But, I am a little concerned about areas which I cannot see.

Accordingly, I am keen to know whether my lubrication procedure is flawed
in some way? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thank you very much.

Glm

08-21-2004, 07:15 PM

In article <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]>,
Glm <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> writes:
>
> Accordingly, I am keen to know whether my lubrication procedure is flawed
> in some way?

I think your lubrication procedure is fine. I think your chain
just got extra, extra wet & the Phil lube got flushed-out.
Especially considering your wet sock scenario.

Get fenders, they'll help preserve your chain ;-) But damn'd
if I'm gonna recommend neoprene booties in the middle of August.
Better to just not wear socks.

Anyway, an overnight's worth of oxidation won't kill your chain.

There's an aftermarket separatable link that actually works (as
opposed to PowerLinks). I think they're called 'SuperLinks'.
If you could undo your chain with such a commodity, and dunk it
overnight in one of those automotive 'parts cleaner' cans that
comes with a dunk tray in it, that would knock the rust right off,
lickety-spit. And the parts cleaner liquid might leave enough of
a film to prevent such minor rusting in future. Coal oil (kerosene)
does, but it stinks too much for use in apartments or shared
accomodations.

cheers,
Tom

--
-- Nothing is safe from me.
Above address is just a spam midden.
I'm really at: tkeats [curlicue] vcn [point] bc [point] ca

08-21-2004, 07:15 PM

In article <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]>,
Glm <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> writes:
>
> Accordingly, I am keen to know whether my lubrication procedure is flawed
> in some way?

I think your lubrication procedure is fine. I think your chain
just got extra, extra wet & the Phil lube got flushed-out.
Especially considering your wet sock scenario.

Get fenders, they'll help preserve your chain ;-) But damn'd
if I'm gonna recommend neoprene booties in the middle of August.
Better to just not wear socks.

Anyway, an overnight's worth of oxidation won't kill your chain.

There's an aftermarket separatable link that actually works (as
opposed to PowerLinks). I think they're called 'SuperLinks'.
If you could undo your chain with such a commodity, and dunk it
overnight in one of those automotive 'parts cleaner' cans that
comes with a dunk tray in it, that would knock the rust right off,
lickety-spit. And the parts cleaner liquid might leave enough of
a film to prevent such minor rusting in future. Coal oil (kerosene)
does, but it stinks too much for use in apartments or shared
accomodations.

cheers,
Tom

--
-- Nothing is safe from me.
Above address is just a spam midden.
I'm really at: tkeats [curlicue] vcn [point] bc [point] ca

08-21-2004, 07:15 PM

In article <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]>,
Glm <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> writes:
>
> Accordingly, I am keen to know whether my lubrication procedure is flawed
> in some way?

I think your lubrication procedure is fine. I think your chain
just got extra, extra wet & the Phil lube got flushed-out.
Especially considering your wet sock scenario.

Get fenders, they'll help preserve your chain ;-) But damn'd
if I'm gonna recommend neoprene booties in the middle of August.
Better to just not wear socks.

Anyway, an overnight's worth of oxidation won't kill your chain.

There's an aftermarket separatable link that actually works (as
opposed to PowerLinks). I think they're called 'SuperLinks'.
If you could undo your chain with such a commodity, and dunk it
overnight in one of those automotive 'parts cleaner' cans that
comes with a dunk tray in it, that would knock the rust right off,
lickety-spit. And the parts cleaner liquid might leave enough of
a film to prevent such minor rusting in future. Coal oil (kerosene)
does, but it stinks too much for use in apartments or shared
accomodations.

cheers,
Tom

--
-- Nothing is safe from me.
Above address is just a spam midden.
I'm really at: tkeats [curlicue] vcn [point] bc [point] ca

08-21-2004, 07:15 PM

In article <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]>,
Glm <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> writes:
>
> Accordingly, I am keen to know whether my lubrication procedure is flawed
> in some way?

I think your lubrication procedure is fine. I think your chain
just got extra, extra wet & the Phil lube got flushed-out.
Especially considering your wet sock scenario.

Get fenders, they'll help preserve your chain ;-) But damn'd
if I'm gonna recommend neoprene booties in the middle of August.
Better to just not wear socks.

Anyway, an overnight's worth of oxidation won't kill your chain.

There's an aftermarket separatable link that actually works (as
opposed to PowerLinks). I think they're called 'SuperLinks'.
If you could undo your chain with such a commodity, and dunk it
overnight in one of those automotive 'parts cleaner' cans that
comes with a dunk tray in it, that would knock the rust right off,
lickety-spit. And the parts cleaner liquid might leave enough of
a film to prevent such minor rusting in future. Coal oil (kerosene)
does, but it stinks too much for use in apartments or shared
accomodations.

cheers,
Tom

--
-- Nothing is safe from me.
Above address is just a spam midden.
I'm really at: tkeats [curlicue] vcn [point] bc [point] ca

08-21-2004, 09:19 PM

On Sat, 21 Aug 2004 20:15:47 -0700, Tom Keats <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> wrote:

> In article <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]>,
> Glm <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> writes:
>>
>> Accordingly, I am keen to know whether my lubrication procedure is
>> flawed
>> in some way?
>
> I think your lubrication procedure is fine. I think your chain
> just got extra, extra wet & the Phil lube got flushed-out.
> Especially considering your wet sock scenario.
>
> Get fenders, they'll help preserve your chain ;-) But damn'd
> if I'm gonna recommend neoprene booties in the middle of August.
> Better to just not wear socks.
>
> Anyway, an overnight's worth of oxidation won't kill your chain.
>
> There's an aftermarket separatable link that actually works (as
> opposed to PowerLinks). I think they're called 'SuperLinks'.
> If you could undo your chain with such a commodity, and dunk it
> overnight in one of those automotive 'parts cleaner' cans that
> comes with a dunk tray in it, that would knock the rust right off,
> lickety-spit. And the parts cleaner liquid might leave enough of
> a film to prevent such minor rusting in future. Coal oil (kerosene)
> does, but it stinks too much for use in apartments or shared
> accomodations.
>
>
> cheers,
> Tom
>

Thank you, Tom. I appreciate the advice.

--

Glm

millingtongl
New York & Yahoo

08-21-2004, 09:19 PM

On Sat, 21 Aug 2004 20:15:47 -0700, Tom Keats <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> wrote:

> In article <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]>,
> Glm <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> writes:
>>
>> Accordingly, I am keen to know whether my lubrication procedure is
>> flawed
>> in some way?
>
> I think your lubrication procedure is fine. I think your chain
> just got extra, extra wet & the Phil lube got flushed-out.
> Especially considering your wet sock scenario.
>
> Get fenders, they'll help preserve your chain ;-) But damn'd
> if I'm gonna recommend neoprene booties in the middle of August.
> Better to just not wear socks.
>
> Anyway, an overnight's worth of oxidation won't kill your chain.
>
> There's an aftermarket separatable link that actually works (as
> opposed to PowerLinks). I think they're called 'SuperLinks'.
> If you could undo your chain with such a commodity, and dunk it
> overnight in one of those automotive 'parts cleaner' cans that
> comes with a dunk tray in it, that would knock the rust right off,
> lickety-spit. And the parts cleaner liquid might leave enough of
> a film to prevent such minor rusting in future. Coal oil (kerosene)
> does, but it stinks too much for use in apartments or shared
> accomodations.
>
>
> cheers,
> Tom
>

Thank you, Tom. I appreciate the advice.

--

Glm

millingtongl
New York & Yahoo

08-21-2004, 09:19 PM

On Sat, 21 Aug 2004 20:15:47 -0700, Tom Keats <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> wrote:

> In article <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]>,
> Glm <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> writes:
>>
>> Accordingly, I am keen to know whether my lubrication procedure is
>> flawed
>> in some way?
>
> I think your lubrication procedure is fine. I think your chain
> just got extra, extra wet & the Phil lube got flushed-out.
> Especially considering your wet sock scenario.
>
> Get fenders, they'll help preserve your chain ;-) But damn'd
> if I'm gonna recommend neoprene booties in the middle of August.
> Better to just not wear socks.
>
> Anyway, an overnight's worth of oxidation won't kill your chain.
>
> There's an aftermarket separatable link that actually works (as
> opposed to PowerLinks). I think they're called 'SuperLinks'.
> If you could undo your chain with such a commodity, and dunk it
> overnight in one of those automotive 'parts cleaner' cans that
> comes with a dunk tray in it, that would knock the rust right off,
> lickety-spit. And the parts cleaner liquid might leave enough of
> a film to prevent such minor rusting in future. Coal oil (kerosene)
> does, but it stinks too much for use in apartments or shared
> accomodations.
>
>
> cheers,
> Tom
>

Thank you, Tom. I appreciate the advice.

--

Glm

millingtongl
New York & Yahoo

08-21-2004, 09:19 PM

On Sat, 21 Aug 2004 20:15:47 -0700, Tom Keats <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> wrote:

> In article <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]>,
> Glm <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> writes:
>>
>> Accordingly, I am keen to know whether my lubrication procedure is
>> flawed
>> in some way?
>
> I think your lubrication procedure is fine. I think your chain
> just got extra, extra wet & the Phil lube got flushed-out.
> Especially considering your wet sock scenario.
>
> Get fenders, they'll help preserve your chain ;-) But damn'd
> if I'm gonna recommend neoprene booties in the middle of August.
> Better to just not wear socks.
>
> Anyway, an overnight's worth of oxidation won't kill your chain.
>
> There's an aftermarket separatable link that actually works (as
> opposed to PowerLinks). I think they're called 'SuperLinks'.
> If you could undo your chain with such a commodity, and dunk it
> overnight in one of those automotive 'parts cleaner' cans that
> comes with a dunk tray in it, that would knock the rust right off,
> lickety-spit. And the parts cleaner liquid might leave enough of
> a film to prevent such minor rusting in future. Coal oil (kerosene)
> does, but it stinks too much for use in apartments or shared
> accomodations.
>
>
> cheers,
> Tom
>

Thank you, Tom. I appreciate the advice.

--

Glm

millingtongl
New York & Yahoo

08-21-2004, 09:37 PM

On Sun, 22 Aug 2004 02:41:24 +0000, Glm wrote:

> Accordingly, I am keen to know whether my lubrication procedure is flawed
> in some way? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thank you very much.
>
>
> Glm

You're doing a swell job with the lubricating, don't sweat it.

If you're worried about oxidation or just want a pretty chain at all
times, there are different chain models, some stainless, some nickel
plated, that will stay "fresher" looking.

I might just have to order a nickel one myself as my basic Sram is on its
last legs. They're shiny and help you go faster!