Road, touring or cross bike?

08-24-2004, 05:46 AM

I need some help deciding on a new bike. Here's the story: I made a
deal with my wife. If I can lose 53# and my Clydesdale status, she
will buy me a new bike. I'm almost there and looking to save some $
by buying a closeout 2004 model. My limit is $1000 for a complete
bike. I would like 105 as the minimum component group. My question
is: do I buy a touring bike, road bike, cross bike? I've done quite
a bit of touring in the past on a mountain bike. In fact, that is my
"road" bike right now-an early 90s steel Fisher mtn bike with slicks.
It is heavy, slow, and the perfect bike for losing weight. Do I keep
it as my touring bike and buy a faster, lighter road bike? Or do I
buy a decent touring bike and use it for all of my road riding? Will
I notice the difference between a road bike and a bare touring bike,
especially at my size? If it matters, I've never ridden a "real" road
bike since I've been a mtn biker for 20 of my 42 years.

Secondly, can anyone recommend some models for me to check out? I
think I would prefer steel, due to its durability and longevity. I
plan on keeping the bike for a long time. I realize that fit will be
a big part of the decision but I'm just looking to narrow the field a
bit. The brands available locally are: Trek, Specialized, Lemond,
KHS, Marin. I'd be willing to drive a bit if you have recommendations
other than these brands. If anyone can point me to a source that
breaks down bikes by steel, aluminum, etc., I would appreciate it. By
the way, I'll be using the bike primarily for fitness rides of 20-60
miles, but working up to a century ride. I'll also be doing 1 or 2
two week fully loaded tours/year.

Thanks for the help!

08-24-2004, 10:33 AM

-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----

In article <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ] >,
Yellowstone Yeti <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> wrote:
>I need some help deciding on a new bike. Here's the story: I made a
>deal with my wife. If I can lose 53# and my Clydesdale status, she
>will buy me a new bike. I'm almost there and looking to save some $
>by buying a closeout 2004 model. My limit is $1000 for a complete
>bike. I would like 105 as the minimum component group. My question
>is: do I buy a touring bike, road bike, cross bike? I've done quite
>a bit of touring in the past on a mountain bike. In fact, that is my
>"road" bike right now-an early 90s steel Fisher mtn bike with slicks.
>It is heavy, slow, and the perfect bike for losing weight. Do I keep
>it as my touring bike and buy a faster, lighter road bike? Or do I
>buy a decent touring bike and use it for all of my road riding? Will
>I notice the difference between a road bike and a bare touring bike,
>especially at my size? If it matters, I've never ridden a "real" road
>bike since I've been a mtn biker for 20 of my 42 years.

_ Unless you're racing, there is very little reason not to get a
touring bike. If you put skinny tires on a touring bike, you
probably won't notice much difference at all. Cross bikes are fun
if you ride dirt roads a lot, but their higher bb's and slightly
steeper angles make them less comfortable on long rides.

>
>Secondly, can anyone recommend some models for me to check out? I
>think I would prefer steel, due to its durability and longevity. I
>plan on keeping the bike for a long time.

>I would appreciate it. By
>the way, I'll be using the bike primarily for fitness rides of 20-60
>miles, but working up to a century ride. I'll also be doing 1 or 2
>two week fully loaded tours/year.

_ I would look at Jamis and Fuji bikes for steel touring bikes
under $1000.

[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]

[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]

_ Trek makes a fine touring bike called the 520, but you might
need to change the crankset for loaded touring.

_ If your Fischer has rigid forks and a reasonably high quality
frame, you might consider touring on your Fischer. I use my 88
Hoo Koo E Koo for just this purpose. Mtn bikes with rigid forks
from that era make very good rough road touring bikes and 26 inch
wheels can work very well for touring. Compare the geometry with
something like the Surly Long Haul Trucker in the smaller sizes.

[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]

_ Booker C. Bense

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08-24-2004, 10:33 AM

-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----

In article <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ] >,
Yellowstone Yeti <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> wrote:
>I need some help deciding on a new bike. Here's the story: I made a
>deal with my wife. If I can lose 53# and my Clydesdale status, she
>will buy me a new bike. I'm almost there and looking to save some $
>by buying a closeout 2004 model. My limit is $1000 for a complete
>bike. I would like 105 as the minimum component group. My question
>is: do I buy a touring bike, road bike, cross bike? I've done quite
>a bit of touring in the past on a mountain bike. In fact, that is my
>"road" bike right now-an early 90s steel Fisher mtn bike with slicks.
>It is heavy, slow, and the perfect bike for losing weight. Do I keep
>it as my touring bike and buy a faster, lighter road bike? Or do I
>buy a decent touring bike and use it for all of my road riding? Will
>I notice the difference between a road bike and a bare touring bike,
>especially at my size? If it matters, I've never ridden a "real" road
>bike since I've been a mtn biker for 20 of my 42 years.

_ Unless you're racing, there is very little reason not to get a
touring bike. If you put skinny tires on a touring bike, you
probably won't notice much difference at all. Cross bikes are fun
if you ride dirt roads a lot, but their higher bb's and slightly
steeper angles make them less comfortable on long rides.

>
>Secondly, can anyone recommend some models for me to check out? I
>think I would prefer steel, due to its durability and longevity. I
>plan on keeping the bike for a long time.

>I would appreciate it. By
>the way, I'll be using the bike primarily for fitness rides of 20-60
>miles, but working up to a century ride. I'll also be doing 1 or 2
>two week fully loaded tours/year.

_ I would look at Jamis and Fuji bikes for steel touring bikes
under $1000.

[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]

[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]

_ Trek makes a fine touring bike called the 520, but you might
need to change the crankset for loaded touring.

_ If your Fischer has rigid forks and a reasonably high quality
frame, you might consider touring on your Fischer. I use my 88
Hoo Koo E Koo for just this purpose. Mtn bikes with rigid forks
from that era make very good rough road touring bikes and 26 inch
wheels can work very well for touring. Compare the geometry with
something like the Surly Long Haul Trucker in the smaller sizes.

[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]

_ Booker C. Bense

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08-24-2004, 10:33 AM

-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----

In article <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ] >,
Yellowstone Yeti <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> wrote:
>I need some help deciding on a new bike. Here's the story: I made a
>deal with my wife. If I can lose 53# and my Clydesdale status, she
>will buy me a new bike. I'm almost there and looking to save some $
>by buying a closeout 2004 model. My limit is $1000 for a complete
>bike. I would like 105 as the minimum component group. My question
>is: do I buy a touring bike, road bike, cross bike? I've done quite
>a bit of touring in the past on a mountain bike. In fact, that is my
>"road" bike right now-an early 90s steel Fisher mtn bike with slicks.
>It is heavy, slow, and the perfect bike for losing weight. Do I keep
>it as my touring bike and buy a faster, lighter road bike? Or do I
>buy a decent touring bike and use it for all of my road riding? Will
>I notice the difference between a road bike and a bare touring bike,
>especially at my size? If it matters, I've never ridden a "real" road
>bike since I've been a mtn biker for 20 of my 42 years.

_ Unless you're racing, there is very little reason not to get a
touring bike. If you put skinny tires on a touring bike, you
probably won't notice much difference at all. Cross bikes are fun
if you ride dirt roads a lot, but their higher bb's and slightly
steeper angles make them less comfortable on long rides.

>
>Secondly, can anyone recommend some models for me to check out? I
>think I would prefer steel, due to its durability and longevity. I
>plan on keeping the bike for a long time.

>I would appreciate it. By
>the way, I'll be using the bike primarily for fitness rides of 20-60
>miles, but working up to a century ride. I'll also be doing 1 or 2
>two week fully loaded tours/year.

_ I would look at Jamis and Fuji bikes for steel touring bikes
under $1000.

[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]

[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]

_ Trek makes a fine touring bike called the 520, but you might
need to change the crankset for loaded touring.

_ If your Fischer has rigid forks and a reasonably high quality
frame, you might consider touring on your Fischer. I use my 88
Hoo Koo E Koo for just this purpose. Mtn bikes with rigid forks
from that era make very good rough road touring bikes and 26 inch
wheels can work very well for touring. Compare the geometry with
something like the Surly Long Haul Trucker in the smaller sizes.

[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]

_ Booker C. Bense

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08-24-2004, 10:33 AM

-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----

In article <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ] >,
Yellowstone Yeti <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> wrote:
>I need some help deciding on a new bike. Here's the story: I made a
>deal with my wife. If I can lose 53# and my Clydesdale status, she
>will buy me a new bike. I'm almost there and looking to save some $
>by buying a closeout 2004 model. My limit is $1000 for a complete
>bike. I would like 105 as the minimum component group. My question
>is: do I buy a touring bike, road bike, cross bike? I've done quite
>a bit of touring in the past on a mountain bike. In fact, that is my
>"road" bike right now-an early 90s steel Fisher mtn bike with slicks.
>It is heavy, slow, and the perfect bike for losing weight. Do I keep
>it as my touring bike and buy a faster, lighter road bike? Or do I
>buy a decent touring bike and use it for all of my road riding? Will
>I notice the difference between a road bike and a bare touring bike,
>especially at my size? If it matters, I've never ridden a "real" road
>bike since I've been a mtn biker for 20 of my 42 years.

_ Unless you're racing, there is very little reason not to get a
touring bike. If you put skinny tires on a touring bike, you
probably won't notice much difference at all. Cross bikes are fun
if you ride dirt roads a lot, but their higher bb's and slightly
steeper angles make them less comfortable on long rides.

>
>Secondly, can anyone recommend some models for me to check out? I
>think I would prefer steel, due to its durability and longevity. I
>plan on keeping the bike for a long time.

>I would appreciate it. By
>the way, I'll be using the bike primarily for fitness rides of 20-60
>miles, but working up to a century ride. I'll also be doing 1 or 2
>two week fully loaded tours/year.

_ I would look at Jamis and Fuji bikes for steel touring bikes
under $1000.

[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]

[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]

_ Trek makes a fine touring bike called the 520, but you might
need to change the crankset for loaded touring.

_ If your Fischer has rigid forks and a reasonably high quality
frame, you might consider touring on your Fischer. I use my 88
Hoo Koo E Koo for just this purpose. Mtn bikes with rigid forks
from that era make very good rough road touring bikes and 26 inch
wheels can work very well for touring. Compare the geometry with
something like the Surly Long Haul Trucker in the smaller sizes.

[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]

_ Booker C. Bense

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08-24-2004, 11:18 AM

I wouldn't worry about the steel vs aluminum thing too much. Everyone
I trust says the same basic thing: The conventional wisdom - aluminum
is lighter, harsher, more fragile, etc. - is based of 90's metallurgy.
Today, they can pretty much do anything with aluminum they can do with
steel and vice versa.

That said, you should buy a steel bike because they look sooo much
cooler than aluminum

On a similar note, I wouldn't worry too much about titles like
road/touring/cross etc. The distinctions are somewhat artificial. Just
figure out what you want to do and buy a bike that does that. So if
you are going to tour on the thing, it doesn't have to be marketed as
a touring bike, but it does have to have enough eyelets and whatnot to
let you attach fenders, racks, etc.

As for other brands to consider, take a look at Jamis as they have
some nice steel bikes. I'm not sure of the pricing, but one of their
steel road bikes or even a Coda might be for you.

08-24-2004, 11:18 AM

I wouldn't worry about the steel vs aluminum thing too much. Everyone
I trust says the same basic thing: The conventional wisdom - aluminum
is lighter, harsher, more fragile, etc. - is based of 90's metallurgy.
Today, they can pretty much do anything with aluminum they can do with
steel and vice versa.

That said, you should buy a steel bike because they look sooo much
cooler than aluminum

On a similar note, I wouldn't worry too much about titles like
road/touring/cross etc. The distinctions are somewhat artificial. Just
figure out what you want to do and buy a bike that does that. So if
you are going to tour on the thing, it doesn't have to be marketed as
a touring bike, but it does have to have enough eyelets and whatnot to
let you attach fenders, racks, etc.

As for other brands to consider, take a look at Jamis as they have
some nice steel bikes. I'm not sure of the pricing, but one of their
steel road bikes or even a Coda might be for you.

08-24-2004, 11:18 AM

I wouldn't worry about the steel vs aluminum thing too much. Everyone
I trust says the same basic thing: The conventional wisdom - aluminum
is lighter, harsher, more fragile, etc. - is based of 90's metallurgy.
Today, they can pretty much do anything with aluminum they can do with
steel and vice versa.

That said, you should buy a steel bike because they look sooo much
cooler than aluminum

On a similar note, I wouldn't worry too much about titles like
road/touring/cross etc. The distinctions are somewhat artificial. Just
figure out what you want to do and buy a bike that does that. So if
you are going to tour on the thing, it doesn't have to be marketed as
a touring bike, but it does have to have enough eyelets and whatnot to
let you attach fenders, racks, etc.

As for other brands to consider, take a look at Jamis as they have
some nice steel bikes. I'm not sure of the pricing, but one of their
steel road bikes or even a Coda might be for you.

08-24-2004, 11:18 AM

I wouldn't worry about the steel vs aluminum thing too much. Everyone
I trust says the same basic thing: The conventional wisdom - aluminum
is lighter, harsher, more fragile, etc. - is based of 90's metallurgy.
Today, they can pretty much do anything with aluminum they can do with
steel and vice versa.

That said, you should buy a steel bike because they look sooo much
cooler than aluminum

On a similar note, I wouldn't worry too much about titles like
road/touring/cross etc. The distinctions are somewhat artificial. Just
figure out what you want to do and buy a bike that does that. So if
you are going to tour on the thing, it doesn't have to be marketed as
a touring bike, but it does have to have enough eyelets and whatnot to
let you attach fenders, racks, etc.

As for other brands to consider, take a look at Jamis as they have
some nice steel bikes. I'm not sure of the pricing, but one of their
steel road bikes or even a Coda might be for you.

08-24-2004, 01:01 PM

My view is that if you are getting a bike mainly for fitness rides up
to 60 miles then a road frame will be the best way to go. Touring
frames are geat for touring but you will probably find them
unresponsive on single day rides. To me a cross frame has no purpose
other than puttering around town- for which they are great. But if you
want to do 50-60 mile rides you will want a lightweight responsive
frame.
As to brands -- there are so many good ones that you should find one
that fits and hits your price point. At $1000 you can get a good bike
with decent components but certainly not near top of the line. I
suggest finding a reputable LBS and going with what they carry so that
you can have good follow on service.