I was reading that the factory rack is not held on very well and then I
was looking at some of the roof rack bars that clamp to the factory
rack and noticed that some of them just hook over the factory rack and
clamp together. So theoretically you could clamp the bars so tight
that they rip the factory rack off of the roof?
I have a 1998 S-10 Blazer with a factory roof rack and I want to
upgrade it to cary 3 bikes now and then in a few years a 4th bike
(small child now). I would like to get a Yakima or a Thule but they
seem so expensive for ocassional use.
Does anyone else have a blazer with a roof rack that has added bars.
Yakima had lowriders, thule has a similar product. These appear to
clamp around the factory rack.
Pro-Line has one [Only registered and activated users can see links. ]
Does anyone have one of these?
O should I not attach to the factory rack at all?
Anyother source suggestions? Or compelling reasons to get the Yakima
or Thule?
What bike holders do you reccommend? I do not have quick release
wheels so I do not want to take them off. Thule looks better than
Yakima in this respect. Any preferences? Any others?
On 1 Mar 2005 09:15:47 -0800, [Only registered and activated users can see links. ] wrote:
>I was reading that the factory rack is not held on very well and then I
>was looking at some of the roof rack bars that clamp to the factory
>rack and noticed that some of them just hook over the factory rack and
>clamp together. So theoretically you could clamp the bars so tight
>that they rip the factory rack off of the roof?
>
>I have a 1998 S-10 Blazer with a factory roof rack and I want to
>upgrade it to cary 3 bikes now and then in a few years a 4th bike
>(small child now). I would like to get a Yakima or a Thule but they
>seem so expensive for ocassional use.
>
>Does anyone else have a blazer with a roof rack that has added bars.
>
>Yakima had lowriders, thule has a similar product. These appear to
>clamp around the factory rack.
I'd advise getting a trailer hitch and mount into that. Less drag. Probably
pay for the rack and hitch in gas savings rather quickly, plus the trailer
hitch mount is much more stable. You can even use the trailer hitch to uh,
you know, hitch a trailer. ;-)
On 1 Mar 2005 09:15:47 -0800, [Only registered and activated users can see links. ] wrote:
>I was reading that the factory rack is not held on very well and then I
>was looking at some of the roof rack bars that clamp to the factory
>rack and noticed that some of them just hook over the factory rack and
>clamp together. So theoretically you could clamp the bars so tight
>that they rip the factory rack off of the roof?
>
>I have a 1998 S-10 Blazer with a factory roof rack and I want to
>upgrade it to cary 3 bikes now and then in a few years a 4th bike
>(small child now). I would like to get a Yakima or a Thule but they
>seem so expensive for ocassional use.
>
>Does anyone else have a blazer with a roof rack that has added bars.
>
>Yakima had lowriders, thule has a similar product. These appear to
>clamp around the factory rack.
I'd advise getting a trailer hitch and mount into that. Less drag. Probably
pay for the rack and hitch in gas savings rather quickly, plus the trailer
hitch mount is much more stable. You can even use the trailer hitch to uh,
you know, hitch a trailer. ;-)
On Tue, 01 Mar 2005 10:35:32 -0700, Rich <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> wrote:
>jj wrote:
>
>> I'd advise getting a trailer hitch and mount into that.
>
>This was the route we went. Makes loading and unloading very easy. I'm
>pleased with it.
>
>Rich
Cool. I'd be worried the roof rack would detach, or the roof would buckle
unless specifically rated by Chevy for that. Though Blazers are built OK,
those roof racks seem to be mostly for light luggage. Didn't think about
the loading and un-loading; good point.
Heh, now you don't have to worry about putting the car in the garage, then
going 'oops!'... ;-D
On Tue, 01 Mar 2005 10:35:32 -0700, Rich <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> wrote:
>jj wrote:
>
>> I'd advise getting a trailer hitch and mount into that.
>
>This was the route we went. Makes loading and unloading very easy. I'm
>pleased with it.
>
>Rich
Cool. I'd be worried the roof rack would detach, or the roof would buckle
unless specifically rated by Chevy for that. Though Blazers are built OK,
those roof racks seem to be mostly for light luggage. Didn't think about
the loading and un-loading; good point.
Heh, now you don't have to worry about putting the car in the garage, then
going 'oops!'... ;-D
> On Tue, 01 Mar 2005 10:35:32 -0700, Rich <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]>
> wrote:
>
>> jj wrote:
>>
>>> I'd advise getting a trailer hitch and mount into that.
>>
>> This was the route we went. Makes loading and unloading very easy.
>> I'm pleased with it.
>>
>> Rich
>
> Cool. I'd be worried the roof rack would detach, or the roof would
> buckle unless specifically rated by Chevy for that. Though Blazers
> are built OK, those roof racks seem to be mostly for light luggage.
In fact they may not even be designed for that. Late model roof racks are
usually designed for sports equipment add-ons, but older vehicles' roof racks
were mostly decorative! The problem is not the roof bucking, it's the screws
holding the rack on pulling right out.
If you do have a late model vehicle, the accessories from Yakima or Thule should
be fine. These brands are your best bet because of their widespread
distribution, which makes it easy to get parts, etc. Resale value is pretty
good too.
> Didn't think about the loading and un-loading; good point.
Yup, for a high roofline vehicle a hitch rack is a lot easier to use, much more
aerodynamic, and not prone to garage entry incidents. I've seen more than one
person drop a bike while straining to put it in a roof rack on a tall SUV,
damaging both truck and bike. The downside to rear racks is the bikes get
dirtier.
However, with such a large vehicle, why do you even need a rack? Do they really
not fit inside? I've always driven *cars,* and rarely had trouble putting bikes
in the trunk. Even small cars will usually take one bike. Most Midsize SUVs
will take 3 or 4 no problem.
Even though I have racks, I only use them when I have more than one bike to
carry in a small car.
Another thing to consider is security -- bikes in racks are major theft targets,
as are the racks themselves. Most of the locks are pretty useless too. With
Thule, for example, even a child can rip the knobs right off, lock and all. 4
kids can steal a rack full of bikes in about 5 seconds, drop it in the back of a
pickup truck, and be gone before you look up from eating your hamburger.
My major criteria for cars is that bikes must fit *inside.* Very few cars are
actually too small to carry one bike -- with ease. With the rear seat folded,
even a Mini will carry 2. Geez, what did we all do before fancy modular roof
rack systems?
> Heh, now you don't have to worry about putting the car in the garage,
> then going 'oops!'... ;-D
> On Tue, 01 Mar 2005 10:35:32 -0700, Rich <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]>
> wrote:
>
>> jj wrote:
>>
>>> I'd advise getting a trailer hitch and mount into that.
>>
>> This was the route we went. Makes loading and unloading very easy.
>> I'm pleased with it.
>>
>> Rich
>
> Cool. I'd be worried the roof rack would detach, or the roof would
> buckle unless specifically rated by Chevy for that. Though Blazers
> are built OK, those roof racks seem to be mostly for light luggage.
In fact they may not even be designed for that. Late model roof racks are
usually designed for sports equipment add-ons, but older vehicles' roof racks
were mostly decorative! The problem is not the roof bucking, it's the screws
holding the rack on pulling right out.
If you do have a late model vehicle, the accessories from Yakima or Thule should
be fine. These brands are your best bet because of their widespread
distribution, which makes it easy to get parts, etc. Resale value is pretty
good too.
> Didn't think about the loading and un-loading; good point.
Yup, for a high roofline vehicle a hitch rack is a lot easier to use, much more
aerodynamic, and not prone to garage entry incidents. I've seen more than one
person drop a bike while straining to put it in a roof rack on a tall SUV,
damaging both truck and bike. The downside to rear racks is the bikes get
dirtier.
However, with such a large vehicle, why do you even need a rack? Do they really
not fit inside? I've always driven *cars,* and rarely had trouble putting bikes
in the trunk. Even small cars will usually take one bike. Most Midsize SUVs
will take 3 or 4 no problem.
Even though I have racks, I only use them when I have more than one bike to
carry in a small car.
Another thing to consider is security -- bikes in racks are major theft targets,
as are the racks themselves. Most of the locks are pretty useless too. With
Thule, for example, even a child can rip the knobs right off, lock and all. 4
kids can steal a rack full of bikes in about 5 seconds, drop it in the back of a
pickup truck, and be gone before you look up from eating your hamburger.
My major criteria for cars is that bikes must fit *inside.* Very few cars are
actually too small to carry one bike -- with ease. With the rear seat folded,
even a Mini will carry 2. Geez, what did we all do before fancy modular roof
rack systems?
> Heh, now you don't have to worry about putting the car in the garage,
> then going 'oops!'... ;-D
The owner's manual should specify the weight rating of the roof rack. If it
is 100 lb, that is three mountain bikes or four road bikes.
Another down side to a rear rack is that it may be in the way when you want
to open the trunk or tailgate. I HAVE wiped off a bike on a low overhanging
roof, and it's disgusting. But, having done it once, I doubt that I will
ever let it happen again.
As to reaching high and dropping a bike: Costco has a little folding
stepladder for about $20 that is perfect for this. Also, I hang a piece of
carpet down the side of my wagon while I'm loading/unloading.