Why no polished aluminum frames? - Page 3 - Cycling Mob: Road Cycling, Mountain Biking and More

06-14-2004, 12:00 PM

"Gooserider" <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> wrote in message news:<mv3zc.89714$[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]. com>...
> NOBODY offers a polished frame.
--------
I'd guess its a combination of labor, exposing every imperfect weld,
and people complained about fingerprints.

Along those lines though, is anyone aware of a shop anywhere that
could strip the paint off a frame, brush it, and anodize it to prevent
oxidation? The paint on my tandem is ok, but seems to chip pretty
easily, exposing a reddish primer. I would just as soon plan to strip
it and leave it bare someday....

sources?

d

06-14-2004, 02:07 PM

dan baker wrote:

> "Gooserider" <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> wrote in message
> news:<mv3zc.89714$[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]. com>...

>> NOBODY offers a polished frame.
> --------
> I'd guess its a combination of labor, exposing every imperfect weld,
> and people complained about fingerprints.

All these things, but mostly labor. It *does* cost a lot to polish a frame.
Most factory polished frames are then clearcoated too, to prevent fingerprints
and oxidation.

> Along those lines though, is anyone aware of a shop anywhere that
> could strip the paint off a frame, brush it, and anodize it to prevent
> oxidation? The paint on my tandem is ok, but seems to chip pretty
> easily, exposing a reddish primer. I would just as soon plan to strip
> it and leave it bare someday....

You could do all these things yourself, except the anodizing. Chemical
strippers (try an aircraft or marine supply store) are the best/fastest way to
remove paint. From there, you could polish it yourself using something like
Simichrome or Met-all, or "brush" it with steel wool.

Some small frame makers would sell you a plain polished frame, and tell you to
use steel wool or metal polish to maintain its appearance. This
"self-maintainable" finish was a selling point, especially in the early days of
mountain biking when bikes were expensive and would get beat up a lot. b Metal
polish has wax/silicone in it to prevent oxidation, and it works pretty well.

I've stripped and polished a couple of frames, and a whole lot of sailboat
parts. It's a lot of work, but once it's done, it's easy to maintain.

Anodizing is cheap in large quantities, but for one-offs it's quite expensive --
perhaps more than a good paint job, and certainly more than powdercoat.

GT sold anodized MTB frames for a long time. Some were clearcoated over the
anodizing, some not. Santa Cruz sells both anodized and polished -- and
polished costs extra.

Matt O.

06-14-2004, 02:07 PM

dan baker wrote:

> "Gooserider" <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> wrote in message
> news:<mv3zc.89714$[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]. com>...

>> NOBODY offers a polished frame.
> --------
> I'd guess its a combination of labor, exposing every imperfect weld,
> and people complained about fingerprints.

All these things, but mostly labor. It *does* cost a lot to polish a frame.
Most factory polished frames are then clearcoated too, to prevent fingerprints
and oxidation.

> Along those lines though, is anyone aware of a shop anywhere that
> could strip the paint off a frame, brush it, and anodize it to prevent
> oxidation? The paint on my tandem is ok, but seems to chip pretty
> easily, exposing a reddish primer. I would just as soon plan to strip
> it and leave it bare someday....

You could do all these things yourself, except the anodizing. Chemical
strippers (try an aircraft or marine supply store) are the best/fastest way to
remove paint. From there, you could polish it yourself using something like
Simichrome or Met-all, or "brush" it with steel wool.

Some small frame makers would sell you a plain polished frame, and tell you to
use steel wool or metal polish to maintain its appearance. This
"self-maintainable" finish was a selling point, especially in the early days of
mountain biking when bikes were expensive and would get beat up a lot. b Metal
polish has wax/silicone in it to prevent oxidation, and it works pretty well.

I've stripped and polished a couple of frames, and a whole lot of sailboat
parts. It's a lot of work, but once it's done, it's easy to maintain.

Anodizing is cheap in large quantities, but for one-offs it's quite expensive --
perhaps more than a good paint job, and certainly more than powdercoat.

GT sold anodized MTB frames for a long time. Some were clearcoated over the
anodizing, some not. Santa Cruz sells both anodized and polished -- and
polished costs extra.

Matt O.

06-14-2004, 02:07 PM

dan baker wrote:

> "Gooserider" <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> wrote in message
> news:<mv3zc.89714$[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]. com>...

>> NOBODY offers a polished frame.
> --------
> I'd guess its a combination of labor, exposing every imperfect weld,
> and people complained about fingerprints.

All these things, but mostly labor. It *does* cost a lot to polish a frame.
Most factory polished frames are then clearcoated too, to prevent fingerprints
and oxidation.

> Along those lines though, is anyone aware of a shop anywhere that
> could strip the paint off a frame, brush it, and anodize it to prevent
> oxidation? The paint on my tandem is ok, but seems to chip pretty
> easily, exposing a reddish primer. I would just as soon plan to strip
> it and leave it bare someday....

You could do all these things yourself, except the anodizing. Chemical
strippers (try an aircraft or marine supply store) are the best/fastest way to
remove paint. From there, you could polish it yourself using something like
Simichrome or Met-all, or "brush" it with steel wool.

Some small frame makers would sell you a plain polished frame, and tell you to
use steel wool or metal polish to maintain its appearance. This
"self-maintainable" finish was a selling point, especially in the early days of
mountain biking when bikes were expensive and would get beat up a lot. b Metal
polish has wax/silicone in it to prevent oxidation, and it works pretty well.

I've stripped and polished a couple of frames, and a whole lot of sailboat
parts. It's a lot of work, but once it's done, it's easy to maintain.

Anodizing is cheap in large quantities, but for one-offs it's quite expensive --
perhaps more than a good paint job, and certainly more than powdercoat.

GT sold anodized MTB frames for a long time. Some were clearcoated over the
anodizing, some not. Santa Cruz sells both anodized and polished -- and
polished costs extra.

Matt O.

06-14-2004, 02:07 PM

dan baker wrote:

> "Gooserider" <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> wrote in message
> news:<mv3zc.89714$[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]. com>...

>> NOBODY offers a polished frame.
> --------
> I'd guess its a combination of labor, exposing every imperfect weld,
> and people complained about fingerprints.

All these things, but mostly labor. It *does* cost a lot to polish a frame.
Most factory polished frames are then clearcoated too, to prevent fingerprints
and oxidation.

> Along those lines though, is anyone aware of a shop anywhere that
> could strip the paint off a frame, brush it, and anodize it to prevent
> oxidation? The paint on my tandem is ok, but seems to chip pretty
> easily, exposing a reddish primer. I would just as soon plan to strip
> it and leave it bare someday....

You could do all these things yourself, except the anodizing. Chemical
strippers (try an aircraft or marine supply store) are the best/fastest way to
remove paint. From there, you could polish it yourself using something like
Simichrome or Met-all, or "brush" it with steel wool.

Some small frame makers would sell you a plain polished frame, and tell you to
use steel wool or metal polish to maintain its appearance. This
"self-maintainable" finish was a selling point, especially in the early days of
mountain biking when bikes were expensive and would get beat up a lot. b Metal
polish has wax/silicone in it to prevent oxidation, and it works pretty well.

I've stripped and polished a couple of frames, and a whole lot of sailboat
parts. It's a lot of work, but once it's done, it's easy to maintain.

Anodizing is cheap in large quantities, but for one-offs it's quite expensive --
perhaps more than a good paint job, and certainly more than powdercoat.

GT sold anodized MTB frames for a long time. Some were clearcoated over the
anodizing, some not. Santa Cruz sells both anodized and polished -- and
polished costs extra.

Matt O.

06-14-2004, 02:07 PM

dan baker wrote:

> "Gooserider" <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> wrote in message
> news:<mv3zc.89714$[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]. com>...

>> NOBODY offers a polished frame.
> --------
> I'd guess its a combination of labor, exposing every imperfect weld,
> and people complained about fingerprints.

All these things, but mostly labor. It *does* cost a lot to polish a frame.
Most factory polished frames are then clearcoated too, to prevent fingerprints
and oxidation.

> Along those lines though, is anyone aware of a shop anywhere that
> could strip the paint off a frame, brush it, and anodize it to prevent
> oxidation? The paint on my tandem is ok, but seems to chip pretty
> easily, exposing a reddish primer. I would just as soon plan to strip
> it and leave it bare someday....

You could do all these things yourself, except the anodizing. Chemical
strippers (try an aircraft or marine supply store) are the best/fastest way to
remove paint. From there, you could polish it yourself using something like
Simichrome or Met-all, or "brush" it with steel wool.

Some small frame makers would sell you a plain polished frame, and tell you to
use steel wool or metal polish to maintain its appearance. This
"self-maintainable" finish was a selling point, especially in the early days of
mountain biking when bikes were expensive and would get beat up a lot. b Metal
polish has wax/silicone in it to prevent oxidation, and it works pretty well.

I've stripped and polished a couple of frames, and a whole lot of sailboat
parts. It's a lot of work, but once it's done, it's easy to maintain.

Anodizing is cheap in large quantities, but for one-offs it's quite expensive --
perhaps more than a good paint job, and certainly more than powdercoat.

GT sold anodized MTB frames for a long time. Some were clearcoated over the
anodizing, some not. Santa Cruz sells both anodized and polished -- and
polished costs extra.

Matt O.

06-15-2004, 02:48 PM

Aluminum CAN and does oxidize over time, although more slowly than
steel. Typically it will take on a dull look and white powdery oxide
forms on its surface. I suppose if you keep it shiny and
well-polished, the oxide formation will be minimal. However, that
approach is not typical of most bike owners.

06-15-2004, 02:48 PM

Aluminum CAN and does oxidize over time, although more slowly than
steel. Typically it will take on a dull look and white powdery oxide
forms on its surface. I suppose if you keep it shiny and
well-polished, the oxide formation will be minimal. However, that
approach is not typical of most bike owners.

06-15-2004, 02:48 PM

Aluminum CAN and does oxidize over time, although more slowly than
steel. Typically it will take on a dull look and white powdery oxide
forms on its surface. I suppose if you keep it shiny and
well-polished, the oxide formation will be minimal. However, that
approach is not typical of most bike owners.

06-15-2004, 02:48 PM

Aluminum CAN and does oxidize over time, although more slowly than
steel. Typically it will take on a dull look and white powdery oxide
forms on its surface. I suppose if you keep it shiny and
well-polished, the oxide formation will be minimal. However, that
approach is not typical of most bike owners.