Chain, Gears & Wheel Lube - Page 6 - Cycling Mob: Road Cycling, Mountain Biking and More

06-17-2004, 11:19 AM

On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 11:07:49 -0400, Ian (remove the antispam) wrote:

> I'd like to be able to avoid buying the small overpriced bottle of "chain
> lube" at the bike shop.

Don't avoid it, they're a bargain in the sense that they save you a lot of
hassle.

Don't use spray lube, it's too messy.

Do use a "dry lube" like Triflow or similar bike specific which is
basically teflon and other particles in a petrochem suspension. Get the
kind in the sqeeze bottle. Put a drop on each link, turn the pedals a few
times to distribute, wait a few minutes for the carrier agent to
dissipate, then rub the outside of the chain until your rag does not turn
black, the lube is inside the chain where you want it. A dry clean chain
will stay clean for quite a while and not attract dirt.

On my M/C chain I use gear oil btw, it's cheap and does the trick.

To clean a chain and cassette quickly I make a 50% Simple Green* solution
and spray on my parts while on the bike, I scrub the chain and cassette
with a dish brush adding more simple green when needed. Then I hose the
whole thing off and let sun/air dry before lubing--takes no more than five
minutes.

*Simple Green is the name brand of a non-toxic concentrated cleanser and
de-greaser. I use it for everything around the house. 20:1 for general
cleaning 80:1 for windows, and 2:1 or straight on greasy bits and pieces.

06-17-2004, 11:20 AM

On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 13:00:59 -0400, Badger_South <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]>
wrote:

>Dunno if this is correct. FWIW. (this is the same guy who wants to charge
>my brother 30 bucks to true a wheel...!!)

Seems reasonable. Maybe I'd start at $ 25 and add $ 5 if they told me
they had already tried to true it and failed. Lord knows what you'd be
dealing with.

Curtis L. Russell
Odenton, MD (USA)
Just someone on two wheels...

06-17-2004, 11:20 AM

On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 13:00:59 -0400, Badger_South <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]>
wrote:

>Dunno if this is correct. FWIW. (this is the same guy who wants to charge
>my brother 30 bucks to true a wheel...!!)

Seems reasonable. Maybe I'd start at $ 25 and add $ 5 if they told me
they had already tried to true it and failed. Lord knows what you'd be
dealing with.

Curtis L. Russell
Odenton, MD (USA)
Just someone on two wheels...

06-17-2004, 11:20 AM

On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 13:00:59 -0400, Badger_South <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]>
wrote:

>Dunno if this is correct. FWIW. (this is the same guy who wants to charge
>my brother 30 bucks to true a wheel...!!)

Seems reasonable. Maybe I'd start at $ 25 and add $ 5 if they told me
they had already tried to true it and failed. Lord knows what you'd be
dealing with.

Curtis L. Russell
Odenton, MD (USA)
Just someone on two wheels...

06-17-2004, 11:20 AM

On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 13:00:59 -0400, Badger_South <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]>
wrote:

>Dunno if this is correct. FWIW. (this is the same guy who wants to charge
>my brother 30 bucks to true a wheel...!!)

Seems reasonable. Maybe I'd start at $ 25 and add $ 5 if they told me
they had already tried to true it and failed. Lord knows what you'd be
dealing with.

Curtis L. Russell
Odenton, MD (USA)
Just someone on two wheels...

06-17-2004, 11:20 AM

On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 13:00:59 -0400, Badger_South <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]>
wrote:

>Dunno if this is correct. FWIW. (this is the same guy who wants to charge
>my brother 30 bucks to true a wheel...!!)

Seems reasonable. Maybe I'd start at $ 25 and add $ 5 if they told me
they had already tried to true it and failed. Lord knows what you'd be
dealing with.

Curtis L. Russell
Odenton, MD (USA)
Just someone on two wheels...

06-17-2004, 11:40 AM

"Badger_South" <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> wrote in message
news:[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]...
> On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 11:20:07 -0400, "psycholist" <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]>
> wrote:
>
> >
> >"Ian (remove the antispam)" <ianstock"antispam"@sympatico.ca> wrote in
> >message news:[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]...
> >> What's better for regular lubing of chain, hubs, derailleur, etc on a
> >hybrid
> >> used mostly for road touring?
> >>
> >> A very light spray oil (like WD-40), something heavier (3 in 1 light
> >machine
> >> oil), or a heavier grease?
> >>
> >> I'd like to be able to avoid buying the small overpriced bottle of
"chain
> >> lube" at the bike shop.
> >>
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Ian
> >>
> >
> >Of the choices you offered, I'd guess the 3 in 1 would be best. If you
> >really want to go cheap, I've heard that used motor oil from a car makes
an
> >excellent chain lube. WD 40 won't do and heavy grease will collect way
too
> >much dirt and probably won't work into the pins very well.
> >
> >Bob C.
> >
>
> My understanding is that the real 'lube' for chain lube is suppoed to be a
> type of wax, and not a type of oil.
>
> I was told by a LBS owner:
> 1. WD-40 is not good, and that the lube in this was 'lanolin'. It
> collects dirt. (For MTB use the lube is almost entirely 'wax' and little
> else, and it is the most resistant to dirt-collection.
> 2. The chain, to be properly lubed should be taken off the bike and
> thoroughly soaked in the 'lube' and then left to dry overnight. The
> transporting agent would evap., leaving the waxy substance on the chain
> 3. When you're lubing a chain you are not doing it for the outside, i.e.
> the chain in the sprockets. You're actually lubing the inner spindle and
> posts inside the chain that lets the individual chain segments move freely
> as they go around the circuit.
>
> Dunno if this is correct. FWIW. (this is the same guy who wants to charge
> my brother 30 bucks to true a wheel...!!)
>
> -Badger
>

I've heard of people who do that sort of thing. Sounds pretty anal to me.
I wonder if there's any research that suggest how many more miles (if any)
you get if you go through all that nonsense. On my road bike, I clean my
chain thoroughly (on the bike with a chain cleaning device and degreaser,
followed by soap and water) about every 300 miles. Then I re-lube with
Pedros extra dry (I rarely have to ride in damp conditions). Between
cleanings, I'll spray with an LPD-9 spray lube and wipe down really well
about every third ride. This seems to work fine.

Bob C.

06-17-2004, 11:40 AM

"Badger_South" <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> wrote in message
news:[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]...
> On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 11:20:07 -0400, "psycholist" <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]>
> wrote:
>
> >
> >"Ian (remove the antispam)" <ianstock"antispam"@sympatico.ca> wrote in
> >message news:[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]...
> >> What's better for regular lubing of chain, hubs, derailleur, etc on a
> >hybrid
> >> used mostly for road touring?
> >>
> >> A very light spray oil (like WD-40), something heavier (3 in 1 light
> >machine
> >> oil), or a heavier grease?
> >>
> >> I'd like to be able to avoid buying the small overpriced bottle of
"chain
> >> lube" at the bike shop.
> >>
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Ian
> >>
> >
> >Of the choices you offered, I'd guess the 3 in 1 would be best. If you
> >really want to go cheap, I've heard that used motor oil from a car makes
an
> >excellent chain lube. WD 40 won't do and heavy grease will collect way
too
> >much dirt and probably won't work into the pins very well.
> >
> >Bob C.
> >
>
> My understanding is that the real 'lube' for chain lube is suppoed to be a
> type of wax, and not a type of oil.
>
> I was told by a LBS owner:
> 1. WD-40 is not good, and that the lube in this was 'lanolin'. It
> collects dirt. (For MTB use the lube is almost entirely 'wax' and little
> else, and it is the most resistant to dirt-collection.
> 2. The chain, to be properly lubed should be taken off the bike and
> thoroughly soaked in the 'lube' and then left to dry overnight. The
> transporting agent would evap., leaving the waxy substance on the chain
> 3. When you're lubing a chain you are not doing it for the outside, i.e.
> the chain in the sprockets. You're actually lubing the inner spindle and
> posts inside the chain that lets the individual chain segments move freely
> as they go around the circuit.
>
> Dunno if this is correct. FWIW. (this is the same guy who wants to charge
> my brother 30 bucks to true a wheel...!!)
>
> -Badger
>

I've heard of people who do that sort of thing. Sounds pretty anal to me.
I wonder if there's any research that suggest how many more miles (if any)
you get if you go through all that nonsense. On my road bike, I clean my
chain thoroughly (on the bike with a chain cleaning device and degreaser,
followed by soap and water) about every 300 miles. Then I re-lube with
Pedros extra dry (I rarely have to ride in damp conditions). Between
cleanings, I'll spray with an LPD-9 spray lube and wipe down really well
about every third ride. This seems to work fine.

Bob C.

06-17-2004, 11:40 AM

"Badger_South" <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> wrote in message
news:[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]...
> On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 11:20:07 -0400, "psycholist" <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]>
> wrote:
>
> >
> >"Ian (remove the antispam)" <ianstock"antispam"@sympatico.ca> wrote in
> >message news:[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]...
> >> What's better for regular lubing of chain, hubs, derailleur, etc on a
> >hybrid
> >> used mostly for road touring?
> >>
> >> A very light spray oil (like WD-40), something heavier (3 in 1 light
> >machine
> >> oil), or a heavier grease?
> >>
> >> I'd like to be able to avoid buying the small overpriced bottle of
"chain
> >> lube" at the bike shop.
> >>
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Ian
> >>
> >
> >Of the choices you offered, I'd guess the 3 in 1 would be best. If you
> >really want to go cheap, I've heard that used motor oil from a car makes
an
> >excellent chain lube. WD 40 won't do and heavy grease will collect way
too
> >much dirt and probably won't work into the pins very well.
> >
> >Bob C.
> >
>
> My understanding is that the real 'lube' for chain lube is suppoed to be a
> type of wax, and not a type of oil.
>
> I was told by a LBS owner:
> 1. WD-40 is not good, and that the lube in this was 'lanolin'. It
> collects dirt. (For MTB use the lube is almost entirely 'wax' and little
> else, and it is the most resistant to dirt-collection.
> 2. The chain, to be properly lubed should be taken off the bike and
> thoroughly soaked in the 'lube' and then left to dry overnight. The
> transporting agent would evap., leaving the waxy substance on the chain
> 3. When you're lubing a chain you are not doing it for the outside, i.e.
> the chain in the sprockets. You're actually lubing the inner spindle and
> posts inside the chain that lets the individual chain segments move freely
> as they go around the circuit.
>
> Dunno if this is correct. FWIW. (this is the same guy who wants to charge
> my brother 30 bucks to true a wheel...!!)
>
> -Badger
>

I've heard of people who do that sort of thing. Sounds pretty anal to me.
I wonder if there's any research that suggest how many more miles (if any)
you get if you go through all that nonsense. On my road bike, I clean my
chain thoroughly (on the bike with a chain cleaning device and degreaser,
followed by soap and water) about every 300 miles. Then I re-lube with
Pedros extra dry (I rarely have to ride in damp conditions). Between
cleanings, I'll spray with an LPD-9 spray lube and wipe down really well
about every third ride. This seems to work fine.

Bob C.

06-17-2004, 11:40 AM

"Badger_South" <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> wrote in message
news:[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]...
> On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 11:20:07 -0400, "psycholist" <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]>
> wrote:
>
> >
> >"Ian (remove the antispam)" <ianstock"antispam"@sympatico.ca> wrote in
> >message news:[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]...
> >> What's better for regular lubing of chain, hubs, derailleur, etc on a
> >hybrid
> >> used mostly for road touring?
> >>
> >> A very light spray oil (like WD-40), something heavier (3 in 1 light
> >machine
> >> oil), or a heavier grease?
> >>
> >> I'd like to be able to avoid buying the small overpriced bottle of
"chain
> >> lube" at the bike shop.
> >>
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Ian
> >>
> >
> >Of the choices you offered, I'd guess the 3 in 1 would be best. If you
> >really want to go cheap, I've heard that used motor oil from a car makes
an
> >excellent chain lube. WD 40 won't do and heavy grease will collect way
too
> >much dirt and probably won't work into the pins very well.
> >
> >Bob C.
> >
>
> My understanding is that the real 'lube' for chain lube is suppoed to be a
> type of wax, and not a type of oil.
>
> I was told by a LBS owner:
> 1. WD-40 is not good, and that the lube in this was 'lanolin'. It
> collects dirt. (For MTB use the lube is almost entirely 'wax' and little
> else, and it is the most resistant to dirt-collection.
> 2. The chain, to be properly lubed should be taken off the bike and
> thoroughly soaked in the 'lube' and then left to dry overnight. The
> transporting agent would evap., leaving the waxy substance on the chain
> 3. When you're lubing a chain you are not doing it for the outside, i.e.
> the chain in the sprockets. You're actually lubing the inner spindle and
> posts inside the chain that lets the individual chain segments move freely
> as they go around the circuit.
>
> Dunno if this is correct. FWIW. (this is the same guy who wants to charge
> my brother 30 bucks to true a wheel...!!)
>
> -Badger
>

I've heard of people who do that sort of thing. Sounds pretty anal to me.
I wonder if there's any research that suggest how many more miles (if any)
you get if you go through all that nonsense. On my road bike, I clean my
chain thoroughly (on the bike with a chain cleaning device and degreaser,
followed by soap and water) about every 300 miles. Then I re-lube with
Pedros extra dry (I rarely have to ride in damp conditions). Between
cleanings, I'll spray with an LPD-9 spray lube and wipe down really well
about every third ride. This seems to work fine.

Bob C.