Does your bike track well? - Page 3 - Cycling Mob: Road Cycling, Mountain Biking and More

07-17-2004, 11:09 AM

"Bill" <bbaka@syix.com> wrote in message
news

psbalkhtdq730am@news.syix.com...
> >
> Since tracking has been brought up I have a question to add. My bike, a
> lowly Huffy, rides OK with no hands but I have to lean it about 5 degrees
> to maintain a straight ahead ride.
..
> Any ideas on why the lean?

Fork ends not straight. See if Sheldon Brown's site has a how to.

07-17-2004, 11:14 AM

I'd check the fork and the frame for alignment, you can have someone at a
good LBS to do that for you too.
There is a max height line on the stem--check it. If you have the stem
raised too high out of the head tube It can cause instability and, worse,
can cause the stem to snap off and you to face plant.

good luck!
ie

"maxo" <maxo@NOSPAMhome.se> wrote in message
news

an.2004.07.17.18.03.42.821166@NOSPAMhome.se. ..
> On Sat, 17 Jul 2004 10:30:07 -0700, Bill wrote:
>
> > Any ideas on why the lean?
>
> Your frame ain't straight. For giggles, wrap a string tightly around the
> head tube and tie the ends to the dropouts. Now measure the distance
> between the string and the seat tube.
>
> I'm off by a couple mm on my road ride after I cold set my frame to accept
> a wider hub--still better than when I started, when it was 5mm off. No
> hands is wobbly on this bike too, but doable--and I've got a fairly
> generously raked circa 1979 tange "racing" fork on it.
>

07-17-2004, 11:14 AM

I'd check the fork and the frame for alignment, you can have someone at a
good LBS to do that for you too.
There is a max height line on the stem--check it. If you have the stem
raised too high out of the head tube It can cause instability and, worse,
can cause the stem to snap off and you to face plant.

good luck!
ie

"maxo" <maxo@NOSPAMhome.se> wrote in message
news

an.2004.07.17.18.03.42.821166@NOSPAMhome.se. ..
> On Sat, 17 Jul 2004 10:30:07 -0700, Bill wrote:
>
> > Any ideas on why the lean?
>
> Your frame ain't straight. For giggles, wrap a string tightly around the
> head tube and tie the ends to the dropouts. Now measure the distance
> between the string and the seat tube.
>
> I'm off by a couple mm on my road ride after I cold set my frame to accept
> a wider hub--still better than when I started, when it was 5mm off. No
> hands is wobbly on this bike too, but doable--and I've got a fairly
> generously raked circa 1979 tange "racing" fork on it.
>

07-17-2004, 11:14 AM

I'd check the fork and the frame for alignment, you can have someone at a
good LBS to do that for you too.
There is a max height line on the stem--check it. If you have the stem
raised too high out of the head tube It can cause instability and, worse,
can cause the stem to snap off and you to face plant.

good luck!
ie

"maxo" <maxo@NOSPAMhome.se> wrote in message
news

an.2004.07.17.18.03.42.821166@NOSPAMhome.se. ..
> On Sat, 17 Jul 2004 10:30:07 -0700, Bill wrote:
>
> > Any ideas on why the lean?
>
> Your frame ain't straight. For giggles, wrap a string tightly around the
> head tube and tie the ends to the dropouts. Now measure the distance
> between the string and the seat tube.
>
> I'm off by a couple mm on my road ride after I cold set my frame to accept
> a wider hub--still better than when I started, when it was 5mm off. No
> hands is wobbly on this bike too, but doable--and I've got a fairly
> generously raked circa 1979 tange "racing" fork on it.
>

07-17-2004, 11:14 AM

I'd check the fork and the frame for alignment, you can have someone at a
good LBS to do that for you too.
There is a max height line on the stem--check it. If you have the stem
raised too high out of the head tube It can cause instability and, worse,
can cause the stem to snap off and you to face plant.

good luck!
ie

"maxo" <maxo@NOSPAMhome.se> wrote in message
news

an.2004.07.17.18.03.42.821166@NOSPAMhome.se. ..
> On Sat, 17 Jul 2004 10:30:07 -0700, Bill wrote:
>
> > Any ideas on why the lean?
>
> Your frame ain't straight. For giggles, wrap a string tightly around the
> head tube and tie the ends to the dropouts. Now measure the distance
> between the string and the seat tube.
>
> I'm off by a couple mm on my road ride after I cold set my frame to accept
> a wider hub--still better than when I started, when it was 5mm off. No
> hands is wobbly on this bike too, but doable--and I've got a fairly
> generously raked circa 1979 tange "racing" fork on it.
>

07-17-2004, 11:14 AM

I'd check the fork and the frame for alignment, you can have someone at a
good LBS to do that for you too.
There is a max height line on the stem--check it. If you have the stem
raised too high out of the head tube It can cause instability and, worse,
can cause the stem to snap off and you to face plant.

good luck!
ie

"maxo" <maxo@NOSPAMhome.se> wrote in message
news

an.2004.07.17.18.03.42.821166@NOSPAMhome.se. ..
> On Sat, 17 Jul 2004 10:30:07 -0700, Bill wrote:
>
> > Any ideas on why the lean?
>
> Your frame ain't straight. For giggles, wrap a string tightly around the
> head tube and tie the ends to the dropouts. Now measure the distance
> between the string and the seat tube.
>
> I'm off by a couple mm on my road ride after I cold set my frame to accept
> a wider hub--still better than when I started, when it was 5mm off. No
> hands is wobbly on this bike too, but doable--and I've got a fairly
> generously raked circa 1979 tange "racing" fork on it.
>

07-17-2004, 11:25 AM

"Badger_South" <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> wrote in message
news:[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]...
>
> I've ridden with no hands, pedalling and just coasting frequently on
> my last bike many, many years ago, cro-moly road bike, but on this
> Trek hybrid (7500FX), I'm having difficulty doing it at all. I'm
> barely able to coast with no hands, but if I pedal the front wheel
> wobbles like crazy - iow, none of that little bit of gyroscopic
> resistance to wobble to help you get going.

> Question is, what's the problem, or is it that some bikes just don't
> track straight, and you can't ride (momentarily) with no hand and
> pedalling.

It may be that your skills have atrophied. Saddles play a part, since you lean
a bike to steer it no-hands, and you lean it by shifting weight. If you shift
weight while pedaling, you'll wobble all over the place. Both the gyroscopic
effect and wheel flop steer the bike into the lean, but the gyro effect
dominates and gets stronger with speed (it's also much quicker). Too much flop
can really screw things up, you can see this if you use a bar bag. No-hands
becomes easier the faster you go.

> ISM you should definitely have that skill as part of bike
> handling 101, but use it sparingly, I guess.

No-hands riding is an essential skill. It also is really nice to sit up to
stretch or just admire the scenery. I use it generously, especially on a
gorgeous July day like this one.

07-17-2004, 11:25 AM

"Badger_South" <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> wrote in message
news:[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]...
>
> I've ridden with no hands, pedalling and just coasting frequently on
> my last bike many, many years ago, cro-moly road bike, but on this
> Trek hybrid (7500FX), I'm having difficulty doing it at all. I'm
> barely able to coast with no hands, but if I pedal the front wheel
> wobbles like crazy - iow, none of that little bit of gyroscopic
> resistance to wobble to help you get going.

> Question is, what's the problem, or is it that some bikes just don't
> track straight, and you can't ride (momentarily) with no hand and
> pedalling.

It may be that your skills have atrophied. Saddles play a part, since you lean
a bike to steer it no-hands, and you lean it by shifting weight. If you shift
weight while pedaling, you'll wobble all over the place. Both the gyroscopic
effect and wheel flop steer the bike into the lean, but the gyro effect
dominates and gets stronger with speed (it's also much quicker). Too much flop
can really screw things up, you can see this if you use a bar bag. No-hands
becomes easier the faster you go.

> ISM you should definitely have that skill as part of bike
> handling 101, but use it sparingly, I guess.

No-hands riding is an essential skill. It also is really nice to sit up to
stretch or just admire the scenery. I use it generously, especially on a
gorgeous July day like this one.

07-17-2004, 11:25 AM

"Badger_South" <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> wrote in message
news:[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]...
>
> I've ridden with no hands, pedalling and just coasting frequently on
> my last bike many, many years ago, cro-moly road bike, but on this
> Trek hybrid (7500FX), I'm having difficulty doing it at all. I'm
> barely able to coast with no hands, but if I pedal the front wheel
> wobbles like crazy - iow, none of that little bit of gyroscopic
> resistance to wobble to help you get going.

> Question is, what's the problem, or is it that some bikes just don't
> track straight, and you can't ride (momentarily) with no hand and
> pedalling.

It may be that your skills have atrophied. Saddles play a part, since you lean
a bike to steer it no-hands, and you lean it by shifting weight. If you shift
weight while pedaling, you'll wobble all over the place. Both the gyroscopic
effect and wheel flop steer the bike into the lean, but the gyro effect
dominates and gets stronger with speed (it's also much quicker). Too much flop
can really screw things up, you can see this if you use a bar bag. No-hands
becomes easier the faster you go.

> ISM you should definitely have that skill as part of bike
> handling 101, but use it sparingly, I guess.

No-hands riding is an essential skill. It also is really nice to sit up to
stretch or just admire the scenery. I use it generously, especially on a
gorgeous July day like this one.

07-17-2004, 11:25 AM

"Badger_South" <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> wrote in message
news:[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]...
>
> I've ridden with no hands, pedalling and just coasting frequently on
> my last bike many, many years ago, cro-moly road bike, but on this
> Trek hybrid (7500FX), I'm having difficulty doing it at all. I'm
> barely able to coast with no hands, but if I pedal the front wheel
> wobbles like crazy - iow, none of that little bit of gyroscopic
> resistance to wobble to help you get going.

> Question is, what's the problem, or is it that some bikes just don't
> track straight, and you can't ride (momentarily) with no hand and
> pedalling.

It may be that your skills have atrophied. Saddles play a part, since you lean
a bike to steer it no-hands, and you lean it by shifting weight. If you shift
weight while pedaling, you'll wobble all over the place. Both the gyroscopic
effect and wheel flop steer the bike into the lean, but the gyro effect
dominates and gets stronger with speed (it's also much quicker). Too much flop
can really screw things up, you can see this if you use a bar bag. No-hands
becomes easier the faster you go.

> ISM you should definitely have that skill as part of bike
> handling 101, but use it sparingly, I guess.

No-hands riding is an essential skill. It also is really nice to sit up to
stretch or just admire the scenery. I use it generously, especially on a
gorgeous July day like this one.