Fixing up an 85 Cannondale, Please advise! - Page 2 - Cycling Mob: Road Cycling, Mountain Biking and More

07-18-2004, 06:49 AM

On 18 Jul 2004 01:56:42 -0700, [Only registered and activated users can see links. ] (Reggie)
wrote:

>So earlier I posted a question about possibly forgoing buying a bike,
>and just borrowing an old friend's 85 cannondale road bike. I finally
>picked up the bike today to see if it's in shape for a round-trip 24
>mile commute, and I must say I was amazed at how beautiful a bike from
>1985 could be.
>
>Anyway, I'm new to cycling entirely, and was wondering whether I
>should spend 700 on a new bike, or should i just consider changing
>some of the components on this older model (brakes in front are a
>little bit uneven, i probably ought to take it to a shop that can fit
>the bike to me...). What are the big changes that took place between
>then and now? Do I just stick with what I have?
>
>If i got a new bike, i was leaning towards touring. Although with the
>quality of the roads on the way to work (multi-potholes) perhaps I
>would be best doing it with a hybrid.
>
>Thoughts on repairs/upgrades? Let's say you had 200 bucks with an 85
>cannondale (tuned up 2 years ago). What do you do?
>
>Side question: How does one get used to that forward position that
>drop handlebars seem to require? Do I ride in a parking lot to get
>acclimated? How long does that usually take?

Hi, if the bike is basically the right size, I would fix just what is
necessary and ride it. In a few months, you will have a much better
idea of what you need and want.

Yes, take it to a shop and get new tubes, tires, and brake shoes. Get
a basic tune up and have them check the chain. Have them raise the
stem/handlebars and adjust the saddle to the general area of correct
height. Two options would be a new saddle, get an inexpensive one, for
now, and new handlebar tape.

If you are uncomfortable on streets and paths, then, go where there is
an open area and practice. If the bike is of a reasonable fit, and you
are in reasonable physical condition, you will get used to it.

Here read the info at this link:
[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]
Lots of good info for the beginner and for the rest of us;-)

Life is Good!
Jeff

07-18-2004, 09:23 AM

[Only registered and activated users can see links. ] (Reggie) wrote in message news:<5a450ee1.0407180056.40dc72ee@posting.google. com>...
> Anyway, I'm new to cycling entirely, and was wondering whether I
> should spend 700 on a new bike, or should i just consider changing
> some of the components on this older model (brakes in front are a
> little bit uneven, i probably ought to take it to a shop that can fit
> the bike to me...). What are the big changes that took place between
> then and now? Do I just stick with what I have?

Here's what I would do. Take the bike to a good shop and get them to
check it out and see if everything is sound. Have them check to see
if the bike fits you and let them adjust the bike to you. It will be
money well spent.

If the bike and the components are sound and it fits, ride it. After
a while you will figure out what you like and don't like and can make
an educated decision as to whether you want to upgrade any of the
components or not.

Dick Durbin

07-18-2004, 09:23 AM

[Only registered and activated users can see links. ] (Reggie) wrote in message news:<5a450ee1.0407180056.40dc72ee@posting.google. com>...
> Anyway, I'm new to cycling entirely, and was wondering whether I
> should spend 700 on a new bike, or should i just consider changing
> some of the components on this older model (brakes in front are a
> little bit uneven, i probably ought to take it to a shop that can fit
> the bike to me...). What are the big changes that took place between
> then and now? Do I just stick with what I have?

Here's what I would do. Take the bike to a good shop and get them to
check it out and see if everything is sound. Have them check to see
if the bike fits you and let them adjust the bike to you. It will be
money well spent.

If the bike and the components are sound and it fits, ride it. After
a while you will figure out what you like and don't like and can make
an educated decision as to whether you want to upgrade any of the
components or not.

Dick Durbin

07-18-2004, 09:23 AM

[Only registered and activated users can see links. ] (Reggie) wrote in message news:<5a450ee1.0407180056.40dc72ee@posting.google. com>...
> Anyway, I'm new to cycling entirely, and was wondering whether I
> should spend 700 on a new bike, or should i just consider changing
> some of the components on this older model (brakes in front are a
> little bit uneven, i probably ought to take it to a shop that can fit
> the bike to me...). What are the big changes that took place between
> then and now? Do I just stick with what I have?

Here's what I would do. Take the bike to a good shop and get them to
check it out and see if everything is sound. Have them check to see
if the bike fits you and let them adjust the bike to you. It will be
money well spent.

If the bike and the components are sound and it fits, ride it. After
a while you will figure out what you like and don't like and can make
an educated decision as to whether you want to upgrade any of the
components or not.

Dick Durbin

07-18-2004, 09:23 AM

[Only registered and activated users can see links. ] (Reggie) wrote in message news:<5a450ee1.0407180056.40dc72ee@posting.google. com>...
> Anyway, I'm new to cycling entirely, and was wondering whether I
> should spend 700 on a new bike, or should i just consider changing
> some of the components on this older model (brakes in front are a
> little bit uneven, i probably ought to take it to a shop that can fit
> the bike to me...). What are the big changes that took place between
> then and now? Do I just stick with what I have?

Here's what I would do. Take the bike to a good shop and get them to
check it out and see if everything is sound. Have them check to see
if the bike fits you and let them adjust the bike to you. It will be
money well spent.

If the bike and the components are sound and it fits, ride it. After
a while you will figure out what you like and don't like and can make
an educated decision as to whether you want to upgrade any of the
components or not.

Dick Durbin

07-18-2004, 09:23 AM

[Only registered and activated users can see links. ] (Reggie) wrote in message news:<5a450ee1.0407180056.40dc72ee@posting.google. com>...
> Anyway, I'm new to cycling entirely, and was wondering whether I
> should spend 700 on a new bike, or should i just consider changing
> some of the components on this older model (brakes in front are a
> little bit uneven, i probably ought to take it to a shop that can fit
> the bike to me...). What are the big changes that took place between
> then and now? Do I just stick with what I have?

Here's what I would do. Take the bike to a good shop and get them to
check it out and see if everything is sound. Have them check to see
if the bike fits you and let them adjust the bike to you. It will be
money well spent.

If the bike and the components are sound and it fits, ride it. After
a while you will figure out what you like and don't like and can make
an educated decision as to whether you want to upgrade any of the
components or not.

Dick Durbin

07-18-2004, 09:37 PM

On 18 Jul 2004 01:56:42 -0700, [Only registered and activated users can see links. ] (Reggie)
wrote:

>So earlier I posted a question about possibly forgoing buying a bike,
>and just borrowing an old friend's 85 cannondale road bike. I finally
>picked up the bike today to see if it's in shape for a round-trip 24
>mile commute, and I must say I was amazed at how beautiful a bike from
>1985 could be.

Bicycles are beautiful, elegant machines. Road bicycles from another
age have a kind of grace that modern compact-geometry bikes don't
have.

>Anyway, I'm new to cycling entirely, and was wondering whether I
>should spend 700 on a new bike, or should i just consider changing
>some of the components on this older model (brakes in front are a
>little bit uneven

Define "uneven"? Brakes often need to be 'toed-in' to prevent a nasty
squeal every time you brake.

If you've got piccies of the bike, we'd be able to help you appraise
it!

>, i probably ought to take it to a shop that can fit
>the bike to me...).

Well if you've got a friend who rides, then he can help you out, too.
Standover height isn't everything. Get on the bike, ride it around,
see what works and what doesn't.

>What are the big changes that took place between
>then and now? Do I just stick with what I have?

1) Integrated shifting and braking. This is huge--it allows you to
shift from the handlebars (from the brake levers, to be specific).

2) Clipless pedals: shoe/cleat/pedal systems that lock you to the
pedals securely without using clips and straps...think like skiboots.

Is it worth dropping the money now to be up to date? Only you can
tell. Cyclists rode pretty well before without the new stuff--but the
new stuff is pretty cool.

>
>If i got a new bike, i was leaning towards touring. Although with the
>quality of the roads on the way to work (multi-potholes) perhaps I
>would be best doing it with a hybrid.
>

Tourers will handle the roads you intend to ride, unless your dealing
with shell holes.

Does the bike have double or triple chainrings? If you want to tour
on this bike, it had better have a triple, unless you're Superman or a
masochist (and some would argue that Superman *was* a masochist).

>Thoughts on repairs/upgrades? Let's say you had 200 bucks with an 85
>cannondale (tuned up 2 years ago). What do you do?

For repairs, I'd have to see the bike itself.

For a commuter, I'd buy a rack, some fenders, a set of lights.

If the bike fits you, and you like it, and nothing's seriously broken,
buy it. A not-quite-optimal tourer would still be a great
commuter--and if you decide that cycling's your thing, you can spend
the RealMoney (TM) on a tourer.

That's what I did--I bought a cheap-ass ($ 75, US) used Raleigh road
bike (ca 1984), used that to learn on (and had a lot of fun, too).
When I knew what I wanted, I dropped $450 on the Jamis Aurora which is
now my principal ride.

>Side question: How does one get used to that forward position that
>drop handlebars seem to require? Do I ride in a parking lot to get
>acclimated? How long does that usually take?

I've posted extensively on the merits of drops, and how I set them up
to be comfortable. Remember: you're not supposed to ride deep in the
drops ALL THE TIME.

I ride with my hands on the brake lever hoods 90 percent of the time,
and find the position quite natural. I have raised the handlebars to
the level of my saddle, and that works just great for me.

-Luigi

07-18-2004, 09:37 PM

On 18 Jul 2004 01:56:42 -0700, [Only registered and activated users can see links. ] (Reggie)
wrote:

>So earlier I posted a question about possibly forgoing buying a bike,
>and just borrowing an old friend's 85 cannondale road bike. I finally
>picked up the bike today to see if it's in shape for a round-trip 24
>mile commute, and I must say I was amazed at how beautiful a bike from
>1985 could be.

Bicycles are beautiful, elegant machines. Road bicycles from another
age have a kind of grace that modern compact-geometry bikes don't
have.

>Anyway, I'm new to cycling entirely, and was wondering whether I
>should spend 700 on a new bike, or should i just consider changing
>some of the components on this older model (brakes in front are a
>little bit uneven

Define "uneven"? Brakes often need to be 'toed-in' to prevent a nasty
squeal every time you brake.

If you've got piccies of the bike, we'd be able to help you appraise
it!

>, i probably ought to take it to a shop that can fit
>the bike to me...).

Well if you've got a friend who rides, then he can help you out, too.
Standover height isn't everything. Get on the bike, ride it around,
see what works and what doesn't.

>What are the big changes that took place between
>then and now? Do I just stick with what I have?

1) Integrated shifting and braking. This is huge--it allows you to
shift from the handlebars (from the brake levers, to be specific).

2) Clipless pedals: shoe/cleat/pedal systems that lock you to the
pedals securely without using clips and straps...think like skiboots.

Is it worth dropping the money now to be up to date? Only you can
tell. Cyclists rode pretty well before without the new stuff--but the
new stuff is pretty cool.

>
>If i got a new bike, i was leaning towards touring. Although with the
>quality of the roads on the way to work (multi-potholes) perhaps I
>would be best doing it with a hybrid.
>

Tourers will handle the roads you intend to ride, unless your dealing
with shell holes.

Does the bike have double or triple chainrings? If you want to tour
on this bike, it had better have a triple, unless you're Superman or a
masochist (and some would argue that Superman *was* a masochist).

>Thoughts on repairs/upgrades? Let's say you had 200 bucks with an 85
>cannondale (tuned up 2 years ago). What do you do?

For repairs, I'd have to see the bike itself.

For a commuter, I'd buy a rack, some fenders, a set of lights.

If the bike fits you, and you like it, and nothing's seriously broken,
buy it. A not-quite-optimal tourer would still be a great
commuter--and if you decide that cycling's your thing, you can spend
the RealMoney (TM) on a tourer.

That's what I did--I bought a cheap-ass ($ 75, US) used Raleigh road
bike (ca 1984), used that to learn on (and had a lot of fun, too).
When I knew what I wanted, I dropped $450 on the Jamis Aurora which is
now my principal ride.

>Side question: How does one get used to that forward position that
>drop handlebars seem to require? Do I ride in a parking lot to get
>acclimated? How long does that usually take?

I've posted extensively on the merits of drops, and how I set them up
to be comfortable. Remember: you're not supposed to ride deep in the
drops ALL THE TIME.

I ride with my hands on the brake lever hoods 90 percent of the time,
and find the position quite natural. I have raised the handlebars to
the level of my saddle, and that works just great for me.

-Luigi

07-18-2004, 09:37 PM

On 18 Jul 2004 01:56:42 -0700, [Only registered and activated users can see links. ] (Reggie)
wrote:

>So earlier I posted a question about possibly forgoing buying a bike,
>and just borrowing an old friend's 85 cannondale road bike. I finally
>picked up the bike today to see if it's in shape for a round-trip 24
>mile commute, and I must say I was amazed at how beautiful a bike from
>1985 could be.

Bicycles are beautiful, elegant machines. Road bicycles from another
age have a kind of grace that modern compact-geometry bikes don't
have.

>Anyway, I'm new to cycling entirely, and was wondering whether I
>should spend 700 on a new bike, or should i just consider changing
>some of the components on this older model (brakes in front are a
>little bit uneven

Define "uneven"? Brakes often need to be 'toed-in' to prevent a nasty
squeal every time you brake.

If you've got piccies of the bike, we'd be able to help you appraise
it!

>, i probably ought to take it to a shop that can fit
>the bike to me...).

Well if you've got a friend who rides, then he can help you out, too.
Standover height isn't everything. Get on the bike, ride it around,
see what works and what doesn't.

>What are the big changes that took place between
>then and now? Do I just stick with what I have?

1) Integrated shifting and braking. This is huge--it allows you to
shift from the handlebars (from the brake levers, to be specific).

2) Clipless pedals: shoe/cleat/pedal systems that lock you to the
pedals securely without using clips and straps...think like skiboots.

Is it worth dropping the money now to be up to date? Only you can
tell. Cyclists rode pretty well before without the new stuff--but the
new stuff is pretty cool.

>
>If i got a new bike, i was leaning towards touring. Although with the
>quality of the roads on the way to work (multi-potholes) perhaps I
>would be best doing it with a hybrid.
>

Tourers will handle the roads you intend to ride, unless your dealing
with shell holes.

Does the bike have double or triple chainrings? If you want to tour
on this bike, it had better have a triple, unless you're Superman or a
masochist (and some would argue that Superman *was* a masochist).

>Thoughts on repairs/upgrades? Let's say you had 200 bucks with an 85
>cannondale (tuned up 2 years ago). What do you do?

For repairs, I'd have to see the bike itself.

For a commuter, I'd buy a rack, some fenders, a set of lights.

If the bike fits you, and you like it, and nothing's seriously broken,
buy it. A not-quite-optimal tourer would still be a great
commuter--and if you decide that cycling's your thing, you can spend
the RealMoney (TM) on a tourer.

That's what I did--I bought a cheap-ass ($ 75, US) used Raleigh road
bike (ca 1984), used that to learn on (and had a lot of fun, too).
When I knew what I wanted, I dropped $450 on the Jamis Aurora which is
now my principal ride.

>Side question: How does one get used to that forward position that
>drop handlebars seem to require? Do I ride in a parking lot to get
>acclimated? How long does that usually take?

I've posted extensively on the merits of drops, and how I set them up
to be comfortable. Remember: you're not supposed to ride deep in the
drops ALL THE TIME.

I ride with my hands on the brake lever hoods 90 percent of the time,
and find the position quite natural. I have raised the handlebars to
the level of my saddle, and that works just great for me.

-Luigi

07-18-2004, 09:37 PM

On 18 Jul 2004 01:56:42 -0700, [Only registered and activated users can see links. ] (Reggie)
wrote:

>So earlier I posted a question about possibly forgoing buying a bike,
>and just borrowing an old friend's 85 cannondale road bike. I finally
>picked up the bike today to see if it's in shape for a round-trip 24
>mile commute, and I must say I was amazed at how beautiful a bike from
>1985 could be.

Bicycles are beautiful, elegant machines. Road bicycles from another
age have a kind of grace that modern compact-geometry bikes don't
have.

>Anyway, I'm new to cycling entirely, and was wondering whether I
>should spend 700 on a new bike, or should i just consider changing
>some of the components on this older model (brakes in front are a
>little bit uneven

Define "uneven"? Brakes often need to be 'toed-in' to prevent a nasty
squeal every time you brake.

If you've got piccies of the bike, we'd be able to help you appraise
it!

>, i probably ought to take it to a shop that can fit
>the bike to me...).

Well if you've got a friend who rides, then he can help you out, too.
Standover height isn't everything. Get on the bike, ride it around,
see what works and what doesn't.

>What are the big changes that took place between
>then and now? Do I just stick with what I have?

1) Integrated shifting and braking. This is huge--it allows you to
shift from the handlebars (from the brake levers, to be specific).

2) Clipless pedals: shoe/cleat/pedal systems that lock you to the
pedals securely without using clips and straps...think like skiboots.

Is it worth dropping the money now to be up to date? Only you can
tell. Cyclists rode pretty well before without the new stuff--but the
new stuff is pretty cool.

>
>If i got a new bike, i was leaning towards touring. Although with the
>quality of the roads on the way to work (multi-potholes) perhaps I
>would be best doing it with a hybrid.
>

Tourers will handle the roads you intend to ride, unless your dealing
with shell holes.

Does the bike have double or triple chainrings? If you want to tour
on this bike, it had better have a triple, unless you're Superman or a
masochist (and some would argue that Superman *was* a masochist).

>Thoughts on repairs/upgrades? Let's say you had 200 bucks with an 85
>cannondale (tuned up 2 years ago). What do you do?

For repairs, I'd have to see the bike itself.

For a commuter, I'd buy a rack, some fenders, a set of lights.

If the bike fits you, and you like it, and nothing's seriously broken,
buy it. A not-quite-optimal tourer would still be a great
commuter--and if you decide that cycling's your thing, you can spend
the RealMoney (TM) on a tourer.

That's what I did--I bought a cheap-ass ($ 75, US) used Raleigh road
bike (ca 1984), used that to learn on (and had a lot of fun, too).
When I knew what I wanted, I dropped $450 on the Jamis Aurora which is
now my principal ride.

>Side question: How does one get used to that forward position that
>drop handlebars seem to require? Do I ride in a parking lot to get
>acclimated? How long does that usually take?

I've posted extensively on the merits of drops, and how I set them up
to be comfortable. Remember: you're not supposed to ride deep in the
drops ALL THE TIME.

I ride with my hands on the brake lever hoods 90 percent of the time,
and find the position quite natural. I have raised the handlebars to
the level of my saddle, and that works just great for me.

-Luigi