Fixing up an 85 Cannondale, Please advise! - Page 4 - Cycling Mob: Road Cycling, Mountain Biking and More

07-19-2004, 01:04 PM

Question: I also can have a 94 touring fuji. Question is, I want to
have the shifting in the handlebars-- I'm new with this whole drop bar
thing, and I don't like having to move my hands to shift. Is it
possible to pay the bike shop to install handlebars that would include
shifters? How much would something like that run?

[Only registered and activated users can see links. ] (Reggie) wrote in message news:<5a450ee1.0407180056.40dc72ee@posting.google. com>...
> So earlier I posted a question about possibly forgoing buying a bike,
> and just borrowing an old friend's 85 cannondale road bike. I finally
> picked up the bike today to see if it's in shape for a round-trip 24
> mile commute, and I must say I was amazed at how beautiful a bike from
> 1985 could be.
>
> Anyway, I'm new to cycling entirely, and was wondering whether I
> should spend 700 on a new bike, or should i just consider changing
> some of the components on this older model (brakes in front are a
> little bit uneven, i probably ought to take it to a shop that can fit
> the bike to me...). What are the big changes that took place between
> then and now? Do I just stick with what I have?
>
> If i got a new bike, i was leaning towards touring. Although with the
> quality of the roads on the way to work (multi-potholes) perhaps I
> would be best doing it with a hybrid.
>
> Thoughts on repairs/upgrades? Let's say you had 200 bucks with an 85
> cannondale (tuned up 2 years ago). What do you do?
>
> Side question: How does one get used to that forward position that
> drop handlebars seem to require? Do I ride in a parking lot to get
> acclimated? How long does that usually take?

07-20-2004, 07:14 PM

On 19 Jul 2004 13:04:50 -0700, [Only registered and activated users can see links. ] (Reggie)
wrote:
>Question: I also can have a 94 touring fuji. Question is, I want to
>possible to pay the bike shop to install handlebars that would include
>shifters? How much would something like that run?

It depends on exactly what equipment your bike has; probably nobody
here would know. However, it will most likely cost almost as much as
a brand new Fuji Touring, which includes what you want (known as
"integrated shift levers", "STI", or known here as "brifters").

Here's why (prices are GUESSES of cost at LBS):
STI levers: $150
New rear wheel: $120
New cassette: $60
New cables/housings: $20
New front derailer: $30
New rear derailer: $60
New crankset: $120
Labor: $100
Total: $660

In reality, you won't need the rear derailer, and the wheel can be
re-worked (for more $$$ in labor and a new hub, costing more). You
probably don't need the crankset either. Many LBS won't want to do
the work without those items, though. A new Fuji Touring costs
something like $800, and a similar new Jamis Aurora is less.
--
Rick Onanian

07-20-2004, 07:14 PM

On 19 Jul 2004 13:04:50 -0700, [Only registered and activated users can see links. ] (Reggie)
wrote:
>Question: I also can have a 94 touring fuji. Question is, I want to
>possible to pay the bike shop to install handlebars that would include
>shifters? How much would something like that run?

It depends on exactly what equipment your bike has; probably nobody
here would know. However, it will most likely cost almost as much as
a brand new Fuji Touring, which includes what you want (known as
"integrated shift levers", "STI", or known here as "brifters").

Here's why (prices are GUESSES of cost at LBS):
STI levers: $150
New rear wheel: $120
New cassette: $60
New cables/housings: $20
New front derailer: $30
New rear derailer: $60
New crankset: $120
Labor: $100
Total: $660

In reality, you won't need the rear derailer, and the wheel can be
re-worked (for more $$$ in labor and a new hub, costing more). You
probably don't need the crankset either. Many LBS won't want to do
the work without those items, though. A new Fuji Touring costs
something like $800, and a similar new Jamis Aurora is less.
--
Rick Onanian

07-20-2004, 07:14 PM

On 19 Jul 2004 13:04:50 -0700, [Only registered and activated users can see links. ] (Reggie)
wrote:
>Question: I also can have a 94 touring fuji. Question is, I want to
>possible to pay the bike shop to install handlebars that would include
>shifters? How much would something like that run?

It depends on exactly what equipment your bike has; probably nobody
here would know. However, it will most likely cost almost as much as
a brand new Fuji Touring, which includes what you want (known as
"integrated shift levers", "STI", or known here as "brifters").

Here's why (prices are GUESSES of cost at LBS):
STI levers: $150
New rear wheel: $120
New cassette: $60
New cables/housings: $20
New front derailer: $30
New rear derailer: $60
New crankset: $120
Labor: $100
Total: $660

In reality, you won't need the rear derailer, and the wheel can be
re-worked (for more $$$ in labor and a new hub, costing more). You
probably don't need the crankset either. Many LBS won't want to do
the work without those items, though. A new Fuji Touring costs
something like $800, and a similar new Jamis Aurora is less.
--
Rick Onanian

07-20-2004, 07:14 PM

On 19 Jul 2004 13:04:50 -0700, [Only registered and activated users can see links. ] (Reggie)
wrote:
>Question: I also can have a 94 touring fuji. Question is, I want to
>possible to pay the bike shop to install handlebars that would include
>shifters? How much would something like that run?

It depends on exactly what equipment your bike has; probably nobody
here would know. However, it will most likely cost almost as much as
a brand new Fuji Touring, which includes what you want (known as
"integrated shift levers", "STI", or known here as "brifters").

Here's why (prices are GUESSES of cost at LBS):
STI levers: $150
New rear wheel: $120
New cassette: $60
New cables/housings: $20
New front derailer: $30
New rear derailer: $60
New crankset: $120
Labor: $100
Total: $660

In reality, you won't need the rear derailer, and the wheel can be
re-worked (for more $$$ in labor and a new hub, costing more). You
probably don't need the crankset either. Many LBS won't want to do
the work without those items, though. A new Fuji Touring costs
something like $800, and a similar new Jamis Aurora is less.
--
Rick Onanian

07-20-2004, 07:14 PM

On 19 Jul 2004 13:04:50 -0700, [Only registered and activated users can see links. ] (Reggie)
wrote:
>Question: I also can have a 94 touring fuji. Question is, I want to
>possible to pay the bike shop to install handlebars that would include
>shifters? How much would something like that run?

It depends on exactly what equipment your bike has; probably nobody
here would know. However, it will most likely cost almost as much as
a brand new Fuji Touring, which includes what you want (known as
"integrated shift levers", "STI", or known here as "brifters").

Here's why (prices are GUESSES of cost at LBS):
STI levers: $150
New rear wheel: $120
New cassette: $60
New cables/housings: $20
New front derailer: $30
New rear derailer: $60
New crankset: $120
Labor: $100
Total: $660

In reality, you won't need the rear derailer, and the wheel can be
re-worked (for more $$$ in labor and a new hub, costing more). You
probably don't need the crankset either. Many LBS won't want to do
the work without those items, though. A new Fuji Touring costs
something like $800, and a similar new Jamis Aurora is less.
--
Rick Onanian

07-20-2004, 07:30 PM

On Tue, 20 Jul 2004 22:14:51 -0400, Rick Onanian <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]>
wrote:

>On 19 Jul 2004 13:04:50 -0700, [Only registered and activated users can see links. ] (Reggie)
>wrote:
>>Question: I also can have a 94 touring fuji. Question is, I want to
>>possible to pay the bike shop to install handlebars that would include
>>shifters? How much would something like that run?

>Here's why (prices are GUESSES of cost at LBS):
> STI levers: $150

Not necessary. Bar-ends will be just fine.

> New rear wheel: $120

Maybe unnecessary.

> New cassette: $60

Depends on wear.

> New cables/housings: $20

VERY good idea.

> New front derailer: $30
> New rear derailer: $60
> New crankset: $120

Again, maybe unnecessary.

But then, it may just be that I'm a cheapskate, and blessed,
cyclingwise, with a bit of a mend-and-make-do ethic.

The main thing is to get a bike that works for you. In my experience,
that meant getting an old bike, cheap, to learn what I wanted,
exactly, before I spent RealMoney on a new bike. By the time I wanted
the NEW bike, I already had very clear idea of what I wanted in a
bicycle...and wasn't bothered that I had to spend a bit for what I
wanted.

-Luigi

07-20-2004, 07:30 PM

On Tue, 20 Jul 2004 22:14:51 -0400, Rick Onanian <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]>
wrote:

>On 19 Jul 2004 13:04:50 -0700, [Only registered and activated users can see links. ] (Reggie)
>wrote:
>>Question: I also can have a 94 touring fuji. Question is, I want to
>>possible to pay the bike shop to install handlebars that would include
>>shifters? How much would something like that run?

>Here's why (prices are GUESSES of cost at LBS):
> STI levers: $150

Not necessary. Bar-ends will be just fine.

> New rear wheel: $120

Maybe unnecessary.

> New cassette: $60

Depends on wear.

> New cables/housings: $20

VERY good idea.

> New front derailer: $30
> New rear derailer: $60
> New crankset: $120

Again, maybe unnecessary.

But then, it may just be that I'm a cheapskate, and blessed,
cyclingwise, with a bit of a mend-and-make-do ethic.

The main thing is to get a bike that works for you. In my experience,
that meant getting an old bike, cheap, to learn what I wanted,
exactly, before I spent RealMoney on a new bike. By the time I wanted
the NEW bike, I already had very clear idea of what I wanted in a
bicycle...and wasn't bothered that I had to spend a bit for what I
wanted.

-Luigi

07-20-2004, 07:30 PM

On Tue, 20 Jul 2004 22:14:51 -0400, Rick Onanian <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]>
wrote:

>On 19 Jul 2004 13:04:50 -0700, [Only registered and activated users can see links. ] (Reggie)
>wrote:
>>Question: I also can have a 94 touring fuji. Question is, I want to
>>possible to pay the bike shop to install handlebars that would include
>>shifters? How much would something like that run?

>Here's why (prices are GUESSES of cost at LBS):
> STI levers: $150

Not necessary. Bar-ends will be just fine.

> New rear wheel: $120

Maybe unnecessary.

> New cassette: $60

Depends on wear.

> New cables/housings: $20

VERY good idea.

> New front derailer: $30
> New rear derailer: $60
> New crankset: $120

Again, maybe unnecessary.

But then, it may just be that I'm a cheapskate, and blessed,
cyclingwise, with a bit of a mend-and-make-do ethic.

The main thing is to get a bike that works for you. In my experience,
that meant getting an old bike, cheap, to learn what I wanted,
exactly, before I spent RealMoney on a new bike. By the time I wanted
the NEW bike, I already had very clear idea of what I wanted in a
bicycle...and wasn't bothered that I had to spend a bit for what I
wanted.

-Luigi

07-20-2004, 07:30 PM

On Tue, 20 Jul 2004 22:14:51 -0400, Rick Onanian <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]>
wrote:

>On 19 Jul 2004 13:04:50 -0700, [Only registered and activated users can see links. ] (Reggie)
>wrote:
>>Question: I also can have a 94 touring fuji. Question is, I want to
>>possible to pay the bike shop to install handlebars that would include
>>shifters? How much would something like that run?

>Here's why (prices are GUESSES of cost at LBS):
> STI levers: $150

Not necessary. Bar-ends will be just fine.

> New rear wheel: $120

Maybe unnecessary.

> New cassette: $60

Depends on wear.

> New cables/housings: $20

VERY good idea.

> New front derailer: $30
> New rear derailer: $60
> New crankset: $120

Again, maybe unnecessary.

But then, it may just be that I'm a cheapskate, and blessed,
cyclingwise, with a bit of a mend-and-make-do ethic.

The main thing is to get a bike that works for you. In my experience,
that meant getting an old bike, cheap, to learn what I wanted,
exactly, before I spent RealMoney on a new bike. By the time I wanted
the NEW bike, I already had very clear idea of what I wanted in a
bicycle...and wasn't bothered that I had to spend a bit for what I
wanted.

-Luigi